KZ750L4 project

I'm about to end up my current project and time to begin the KZ750 will come pretty soon.
I gave it a quick examination and I already have four questions so here I go.

1- SPARK PLUS THREADS
(Plugs are BR8ES and google told me threads are M14 x 1.25)
Threads are worn out in two holes on the cylinderhead. I assume I will have to take the cylinderhead off to take care of this. I know it can be repaired but I never made this for a spark plug. I already have a Helicoil kit (M6, M8, M10) that I already used and I assume the repair procedure is the same for a spark plug.
Can I simply buy the M14 x 1.25 related Helicoil parts or is it preferable to get a spark plug designed kit?

Will both kit (links below) work equally?
www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oemtools-spar...25-0250137p.html#srp
www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oemtools-spar...25-0251079p.html#srp

2- ENGINE GASKETS
Do I need a 1983-1984 gasket set or sets made for 1980 to 1982 also fits? I looked on Z1 Enterprises website; is it the best place to look for KZ related parts?

3- CARB REBUILD KIT
I also think I'll rebuild the carbs so I intend to get a complete rebuild kit. I found such a kit on Z1 but are there some other ones less expensive?

4- CARBS DRAIN SCREWS
Head of the drain screws are quite worn out. Screw is #92066-1064 and corresponding o-ring is #92055-044 and they are not included in a carb rebuild kit.
4a- Where can I get such parts? (beside Kawasaki dealer)
4b- Are there some jobber companies supplying those? OEM are somewhat expensive...

Many thanks guys!!

1) I'd skip the resistor plugs. Not needed. Timeserts are the best and it's not necessary to remove the head. Generic solid inserts are second best. Helicoils are in 3rd place. Key is to use an insert that won't come back out. Use grease on tap. A few aluminum chips in the cylinder will pass out the exhaust and not hurt anything but it's best to minimize the swarf best you can.

2) Aftermarket gaskets are a crap shoot. OEM gaskets are the safe bet but they are more expensive and no gasket kits are sold. Look on a site like Partzilla for the PN's and then hunt best price on ebay.

3) Carb kits are just like gasket kits; most suck and are not as good as the OEM parts. I'd recycle your original brass parts unless they are damaged and source O-rings from cycleorings or Z1. There is a member here selling o-ring kits too. Search out details if interested. If you need brass then Dennis Kirk has the best prices I've found.

4) Carb drain screws have a very fine thread. I'm unaware of any aftermarket screws that properly substitute for the OEM parts.

If you can't get factory gaskets, I like Vesrah. They're high quality, and they're actually black like OEM instead of green or red.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere is where I bought my gasket and carb rebuild kit from. eBay name is Deam305, he is in BC.


That is the Vesrah kit.





JL

I second kaylinator's advice.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

Nessism wrote: 1) I'd skip the resistor plugs. Not needed. Timeserts are the best and it's not necessary to remove the head. Generic solid inserts are second best. Helicoils are in 3rd place. Key is to use an insert that won't come back out. Use grease on tap. A few aluminum chips in the cylinder will pass out the exhaust and not hurt anything but it's best to minimize the swarf best you can.

The spark plugs are new so I'll stick with those BR8ES for now (unless you tell me there is a problem using them). I'll get straight B8ES for the next set.
One of the link I posted in OP is for Timeserts so this will be my choice.
Really? No need to remove cylinderhead? I'm really (positi

Long thread about Vesrah Gasket Set Failure from over on The GS Resources...

www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread...h-Gasket-Set-Failure

Oh, and I'd run Vesrah 100x over Athena. Those gaskets are pure junk...and I've got photos that prove it.

Regarding the drain screws, I'm glad you found some. I was confusing the KZ screws with those from GS Mikuni's.

New day, new challenge...
(NOTE: It is a lifetime first for me to make a video and to post it on the net. Hope it is clear and OK...)
Today, I gave a look at the LH side of the engine because of a sloppy shifter lever. I found three issues and would like to have your opinion.

1- Shifter pedal is loose over the sprocket cover's pivot (first video). Diameter of steel pivot is 11.8 mm and I believe that it is the aluminum pedal that is worn out. Solutions: buy a used pedal or drill the pedal and have a sleeve installed. What would you do?

2- Shifter shaft is loose through sprocket cover hole (second video). Is this normal or does the hole in the sprocket cover should be a tighter fit around the shaft? Here too I think I could enlarge the hole and have a sleeve fitted.

3- Shifter shaft is loose through engine case hole (third video). Is this normal? I know there's an oil seal there so maybe it's normal to have some lateral play??

Please let me know what you think. Thanks!!

Well, as expected, the videos don't show up. But I think you can download them by clicking on the small download icon (down pointing arrow) below each video. They are very short and last about 5-8 seconds each.

The videos came through okay.

Regarding the wobble, welcome to the world of 40 year old motorcycles! Sorry, bad humor....

You could look for some new parts that are less worn: shift shaft, trans cover, sprocket cover, etc. Another option is bushing the parts. If you have a lathe, or know someone with one, it would be pretty simple. I have one and might be able to help if you get stuck.

BTW, my 750 had a direct link shift lever from new and the shifting action was clunky. When installing pegs and a articulated shifter from a bike like yours the shifting greatly improved. The stock lever resulted in a bending moment when shifting but with the articulated linkage the shift shaft loads were purely rotational. A great improvement.

Nessism wrote: Regarding the wobble, welcome to the world of 40 year old motorcycles! Sorry, bad humor....

Don't worry, I like humor ) About the wobble, although I was not expecting this, I am not surprised.

Nessism wrote: You could look for some new parts that are less worn: shift shaft, trans cover, sprocket cover, etc. Another option is bushing the parts. If you have a lathe, or know someone with one, it would be pretty simple. I have one and might be able to help if you get stuck.

I think bushing the parts will work very good. I already bought some material today in order to make some tests. I have no lathe though and I'll try another way. Thanks a lot for your offer about your lathe!! I'll try a local machine shop if needed and maybe would contact you if I'm stuck.
Regarding the worn out parts; it's obvious the shifter pedal and sprocket cover needs a rework. However, I'm less sure about the "mission cover" (called like that on Partzilla). As far as I can see on the parts diagram (Picture below), the way this cover is made, it looks like it does not support the shifter shaft. It does have an oil seal the shaft goes through but looks like there nothing more. I believe the shifter shaft is held only by its both ends and that when the sprocket cover is removed, the shaft wobbles a lot because its outer end becomes unsupported. Do you see it that way?

Nessism wrote: BTW, my 750 had a direct link shift lever from new and the shifting action was clunky. When installing pegs and a articulated shifter from a bike like yours the shifting greatly improved. The stock lever resulted in a bending moment when shifting but with the articulated linkage the shift shaft loads were purely rotational. A great improvement.

Strange thing because I looked at shifters of both KZ750LTD and Spectre and because they have forward moved rider pegs, their shifters have splines and are mounted directly on the shifter shaft.

Finally, a zillion thanks for always taking the time to answer my posts!! This is really helpful and fully appreciated!

If you want more forward pegs I've still got my originals, along with the shifter and brake pedal. It's a direct bolt on. I preferred the slightly rearward parts so the switch was made. The peg brackets I've got have been repainted with epoxy primer and urethane top coat. Anyway, they are sitting in a box if you want to simplify and move the pegs forward by a couple of inches for more hip clearance.