Oil drain bolt from hell... Got it out!

Alright, so I'm trying to change the oil, first time after I got the bike. Both the oil drain bolt and the oil filter bolt appear to be completely seized up. The bolt edges were already a bit rounded and the drain plug especially isn't getting any prettier. A 17 socket, wrench or ring spins on it, a 16 is too small. I was over at Sears last night and the guy there let me try one of those Gator sockets (with the little steel pins) and that didn't work either...

I've removed all the exhaust studs from a head so I know the virtue of patience, a propane torch, PB Blaster and vice grips. It's kinda awkward to use those underneath the bike though....

So far I've only tried when the bike is warm (per the manual, for the oil change), should I try when it's cold? Any tools or techniques I should know about? This bolt is driving me nuts...
-dutch

Post edited by: dutchz, at: 2005/11/28 23:04

Try 21/32.

Good idea... 5/8 was too small. I'll see if I can find a 21/32 socket or wrench somewhere.
Warm or cold guys? Anyone?

I have been in and out of hand tools sales for about 5 years and have never sold a gator grip, not even to the last minute buyers on Christmas Eve day at 3:00 pm.

I havent tried it but it doesnt seem as gimicky as Gator Rip but there is something called www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_Us...subcat=Taps+%26+Dies "bolt off"

I will confess what I did when a KZR member who lives close by had the same situation. I (luckily) had an extra plate and bolt that I brought with me. I brought a big breaker bar and my sockets and proceded to try to remove his oil nut. I was turning "the other left" and it wasnt moving much, until SNAP and the it spun freely while oil leaked all over the edges (now multiple new edges also) of the filter cover that I snapped by turning the wrong way. I am glad I had and brought the extra along. Luckily for me the cover was the weak point, not the threads where the bolt is mounted into.

Post edited by: danoz7five0, at: 2005/11/15 20:03

Mmm... The - friendly - sales associate actually let me "try" the gator grip in the parking lot and I think it didn't like the torque i put on it... I think it says it's rated up to 100 pounds. Some of the pins didn't come back up. At least I didn't spend 10 bucks on a toll that doesn't work. I'll keep the Bolt out kit in mind. First I'll try a 21/32 as hwms suggested, and a large adjustable spanner.

By the way DanOz, the oil drain plug is not located on the round oil filter cover plate but next to it. There's a secondary, smaller drain plug on the cover and that one comes out fine. The oil filter bolt seems stuck too, but I (too) need to get a spare before I damage it upon removal :pinch: .

Still no answer to the warm or cold thing... any suggestions? I'm trying to figure out if the aluminum and steel, expanded when hot, would make the bolt fit tighter or looser.

Shouldn't matter too much whether hot or cold. Make sure you are using a 6 point socket and a good breaker bar!

aluminum will expand faster then steal. So maybe achieving the right temp is the key.

what i would do is heat up the bolt and slam a 16 mm socket on with a hammer. the give her hell. if that doesnt' work, try a cresent wrench or channel lock. I've used both before.

OR, hit the smaller socket and ratchet with a hammer. Tightening it first sometimes breaks the threads loose.


if worse comes to worse take off ur oil pan and put in a vice and try to get it out.

hope this helped a little bit

Get yourself the low profile cover and drain plug kit that drag racers use. It uses a 5/16 - 8mm allen wrench.
www.kzzone.com

Jay

Post edited by: APE Jay, at: 2005/11/16 00:39

Take a propane torch and heat the area around that bad boy real hot. Then take whatever tool you can get a good grip with and break it loose.

I ended up using my beam type torque wrench (I know I shouldn't) since I didn't have a good breaker bar handy.

Alright, I've got some pointers... I'll go at it as soon as I have my spare bolts. Thanks everyone! Will let you know how it goes...

Of course, it is your bike and you have already received some good tips but the Sears "bolt off" sockets and a 1/2" breaker bar will quickly remove the old bolts. I have a set and have used them for exactly the purpose you are struggling with.

The second idea is to buy a new drain bolt FIRST and then get the big vise grips out and just have at it. Once you have ruined the 17mm head, you can cut it to 5/8" fairly easily with a file but it is real hard to sqaure off the sides so a new bolt is the easiest answer.

Last, idea is that you will want to pull the pan anyway to clean the crud in the bottom. If the bike is new to you, cleaning the pan and oil pump screen is a first step maintenance item as the screen will be nasty and the sump will be a mess of goo and foreign material. In this case, buy a new pan gasket and drop the pan. Once you have the pan off and cleaned, then use heat while the pan is locked in a bench vise and the bolt will come out. Make sure your new bolt is magnetic. You will also want to get a new oil filter bolt which is different than MOST of the later ones.

Had this same problem removing the oil drain plug bolt from a pal's '77 KZ1000. Tried that Gator Socket from Sears, no dice. Tried standard sockets with no success. Filed the drain bolt smaller to fit a smaller standard and metric sockets -- this option failed. Even JB-welded a socket onto the drain plug!
Nope.

Then I got serious, using my small chisel and small ball pein hammer. Failed.

Then I got VERY serious with my BIG 18" chisel and VERY BIG ball pein hammer -- success!

Post edited by: bohicabob, at: 2005/11/16 19:30