When I purchased the bike, two of the fuses and clips wouldn't stay put in the fuse box, and were wrapped in electrical tape to keep them from shorting to anything. The plastic in the fuse box had been melted by a previous electrical fault, so the fuses would not stay put, and the cover for the box wouldn't close.
I'm not generally in favor of modifying the original equipment as it reduces the value of the bike, but in this case there wasn't much choice. The connections were intermittent, and the electrics on the bike were unreliable. Here is my inexpensive solution:
I removed the fuse box, and flipped it over, using the flat back of the box to mount a new fuse holder to. This allowed me to continue to use the mounting original mounting equipment for the fuse box.
I purchesed an inexpensive fuse holder from Radio Shack (Catalog #: 270-742). It came with four positions for fuses, and I only needed three, so I cut one of them off. I also purchased 1/4 inch insulated spade lugs (Catalog#: 64-3131.
Next I made a quick drawing of the fuse box, showing which wires went to each fuse, and their colors, and the rating of each fuse.
I cut all the fuse box wires as close as possible to the fuse holder electrical crimps, then stripped them back and crimped on the new spade lugs. Then I mounted the new fuse holder to the back of the box, using small screws, nuts and lock-washers, and flat washers.
Reconnected the wires, using my original diagram, and inserted the fuses in the correct positions (after removing the sticky electrical tape adhesive with acetone, LOL).
I had to remove a couple of inches of sheathing from the wire bundle to get enough slack to not have excessive kinking. FWIW, I felt with the original fusebox arrangement the wires didn't have enough slack.
Anyway, here is a picture of the final installation, with which I have had *no* problems since.
