Woodhead's '77 KZ1000A resto mod attempt.

WoodheadB2 wrote:

Front end is from a '12 ZX6. I'm kinda worrying about it being too short. I found some extenders that tread into the tops but I really can't drop them in the lower clamp any more than what I have em. The diameter gets smaller and they won't clamp tight. Not good!  That's why I need to get it on the floor and see how it's going to work. I'm a short guy so I was thinking that if it comes lower than stock it might be if it my smaller stature. We'll see. Then it's back to the drawing board. Seems like a lot of that!

You should get the front end sorted first then set the rear height to get the correct stance otherwise you will end up with a shopping trolley handling death trap.
With the stock yokes the max increase you can get is 32mm via some simple internal damper rod extensions and if that isn't enough to get sufficient ground clearance you are looking at stepped yokes.
From the pic it does look like you may have quite a bit of stem length protruding through the top bearing.
If that is the case then maybe there is scope to drop the bottom yoke via a spacer under the bottom bearing to sneak a few extra mill for the forks to drop.
Every little helps.

 

Hm, i would say, get a longer swing arm (frame pivot to rear axle distance 560 - 600 mm).

 
 
 

         

Went to work on the Kawi this last week. Bought some 2008 ZZR600 footpegs and levers and  fabled my own brackets. I'm going to get some real spacers,  they're just temp for fitting purposes. The master cylinder is a 2023 ZX6. Matches the ZX6 rear caliper. 

Pic of the original Kerker that was on the bike. Blasted it then repaint.  

Moving along nicely, will be a sweet ride when finished 

I'm liking this one ,definitely will be following. Nice work!

I bought a shift shaft lever off  eBay so I can fit the linkage to the foot lever, then the rear sets will be finished. Next will be getting the shock mounts welded on then I'll have a roller. 

Nice work and progress so far !!!

Just a little hint.
I use a 60 mm long clear tube as a brake fluid reservoir.
Easy to check the min./max. fluid level = brake pad wear.
A hydaulic banjo bolt brake switch is more fail safe as a machanic accutated one!

 

 
 
 

Like the way you think! That  banjo bolt switch is way cool. Where would I find one? How's it hook up? I was thinking of the clear tube reservoir if I can't get the original from the ZX6 to hide somewhere. It's pretty a pretty long hose but until I get the battery box in I won't be able to tell. Hey, you got me motivated to temp it in to see!   I like your bike by the way. Very clean and not overdone. Ya know, red and blue anodized everything and billet handgrips, that kinda stuff. Clean is cool!  I noticed your pegs are ALOT farther back and up from where mine are. I didn't want them to be too radical. How do yours feel? I figured I moved em back from stock about 4 inches and up about an inch. I was also worried about my boot rubbing the clutch cover and scratching it up. Once it up and running if I don't like the placement I'll make new brackets. We'll see. 

       

My newest problem with the mod. The sprockets are way off for an offset sprocket. One measurement is from the outside of the spocket, the other from the inside. It's almost .850 of an inch. Anyone have a solution?  

You have to do some time on the lathe to trim off some aluminum of the rear sprocket carrier to get the correct chain aligment.
Don´t ask me why i know it. Have done it on my ZX9-R sprocket carrier.
Will post more detailed pics later (WE), i´m very busy @ the moment......
Is your wheel centerd to the frame/swing arm? What size is the off set front sprockt on the out put shaft?
A 10 -14 mm off set sprocket (530/630 chain) is strickly necessary!!!!

 
 
 
 
 
 


 

Agree with Scirocco, off set the front sprocket as far as you can without the chain hitting the frame and take the rest off the sprocket carrier (will need to shorten the sprocket bolts)