Restoring a 1981 Z1000J1 in Australia

Hello from the Redlands in Queensland Australia, back in 1982 I bought a brand new Candy Cobalt Blue Z1000J2, rode it until the wheels fell off...
Fast fwd 42 years and I've bought an 81 J1 that needs some work to bring it back to life, the plan is to get it painted in Candy Cobalt Blue (I know the J1 didn't come in that colour but hey who'll know) and original as possible, seat is being recovered in OEM pattern, IKON replica shocks are ordered, the best I could do for exhausts was the Delkevic Megaphone in Stainless (at least from one side it will kinda look close to original)
Would love to source an original Grab Bar, Doremi did do a replica but has been discontinued...
The things I'm going to need help with are the Speedo and Tacho, all the dial screws have come out and are floating around and the damper rings have basically disintegrated, the Ignition Switch is a bit dodgy and cuts out if you bump the bike so that needs to be sorted before hitting the road, oh and the carbs are leaking fuel, new needle and seats are on their way.
The rest is cosmetic mostly rusty nuts, bolts and brackets...

A lot has happened since my Saying Hello post, it seems like every thing I touch on this bike is either broken or about to break...
All the brakes needed new seals and pistons, seller told me they had been reconditioned but neglected to tell me he removed the pistons using multi-grips and destroyed the surfaces then reused the old seals, fluid just leaked out over the calipers and wheels and you know the story, add stripping and painting to the list...
Clutch Cover was leaking oil, pulled it off to discover it had no gasket just some poorly applied sealant/goo, thought I best measure the clutch plates whilst I'm here, 1st spring bolt I went to loosen just snapped off with the hub post, I later discovered the post had previously been broken and had a bolt inserted from rear side but was too long and the spring bolt had bottomed out on it and had cracked.
It gets better, noticed how loose the clutch housing was so I took it off to measure the housing inner and bearing collar outer, that's when I found the large crack in the housing...parts are on their way from CMSNL...
I haven't mentioned all the minor issues like all the stripped threads, broken bolts, perished rubbers, frayed cables, painted carbs that don't look very pretty after fuel had leaked on them....
So today I decided I would check the valve clearances, a couple were in spec but most are .04mm or less (.04mm is the smallest feeler gauge I have), I'll need to source some new shims and a Valve Lifter Holder tool.
I have noticed the Cam Chain is not aligned with the cam sprocket where it runs down into the engine on the tensioner side, it veers off to the right side, almost touching the side of the tunnel, I'm out of my depth here, can somebody give me some guidance on what could be the problem???
It was difficult to get a photo, these are taken from the exhaust side looking towards the inlet side.
Also photos of my lovely black carbs and the broken clutch hub post...

Cheers

   

 

 

Are the cam caps in the correct position (one cap on each cam controls the lateral position of the cams) hard to tell from the pic but it looks like the cams aren't central ??
PS: I fixed your pics, next time once you have attached your pics click "insert all" before posting

I reckon the other possibility is that the chain has jumped off the crankshaft sprocket.

Wow seems the PO has left you some surprises and traps.  There is a lot of knowledge and experienced people on KZR that can help you.  Keep us updated on your progress.

Looks like the rear cam chain guide (12053-1049) is broken at the locating shaft (13091-1084) area .

 Just checked the cam caps, all in correct positions and torqued to specs.
I can turn the crank easily, no noises, chain is rotating around the crank sprocket.
I'm thinking Scirocco might be on the money, the guide should be vertical not leaning hard to the one side so it makes sense that it could be broken at it's attachment point, unfortunately that's going to require a major strip down.....aarrrgh
Thanks for the help everyone
 
 

If you remove the tensioner and push the guide back does the chain fall into line ? have you got pics that show the ends of the cams ?

Kind of, I removed the tensioner and yes it comes back into line but when I poke my finger through the tensioner hole I can easily move the guide side to side and quite a way forwards but not upwards so it appears to be still attached at the bottom.
Hope that makes sense??
I've tried to attach a video
I'll take some pics of the cam ends soon

 

Unfortunately that definitely looks like the guide is f~@*'d it should pivot forwards and backwards but that much "twist" and sideways movement suggests it's time to get your hands dirty

Bugger...that's not what I wanted to hear  it just keeps getting better

Glenn you should thank god that your engine didn´t destroy it self.
Removing and assembly the head and cyl. is no rocket science.
We all will guide you through the process.

 

Thanks everyone, with the resources here and the manual I'm reasonably confident of getting it done...CMSNL looks to have most of the parts I may need with the exception of the Holder, Cam Chain Guide 13091-1084