Help KZ200 keeps dying.

I suggest you run the tests on the regulator described in the Kawasaki Service Manual to see if in fact it is overcharging. If it is it's possible that could be causing the coil to overheat. Ed

As a piece of general advice, try to focus on fixing one thing at a time. I'd start with the petcock and fuel filters because it's easy. Don't go far, especially if you know it dies after about 40 minutes. Ride away from home for 15-20 minutes then turn around and head home so it'll die in your driveway.

Was the coil replaced with a new aftermarket (like an Emgo) or a used part off another bike? If new, it's unlikely that's the problem. Certainly possible, but unlikely.

I agree the coil may not be the root cause of the problem, but it maybe the victim of the problem. If the regulator is letting high voltage go to the coil that could cause it to overheat. If that is the case, the coil may work fine for years once the over-voltage problem is eliminated. Ed

Hi Kz200Kid,

Welcome to KZR! I'm glad to see that our members are stepping up to help you sort out your issues with your new bike. In the mean time It might help if you would review the forum rules. I renamed this thread so that it had a descriptive title. The rules ask that we use descriptive thread titles so that other members coming behind you can search and learn from your experience. I also moved it from "Engines" to "Bike Related"

Thanks for contributing.

Bill

Topper it was a brand-new coil aftermarket.

Ok guys I cleaned the Petcock it wasn't that dirty as I expected it to be. There was minor rust in the tank but not bad at all. I did a test on the battery with the bike off and it showed 12.75 volts when I started it it drop down to like 11.58 then back to 12.75 when revving it to 4000 rpm it was hitting 14.62 and staying steady there. What do you guys think?

i was having the same problem. my float was sticking closing off fuel then, when the bowl ran dry the bike would bog out and die.

If not already done, would assure that valve clearances are within specs.

Good Fortune!

I'm going to throw another potential out there, since the fuse was blown - electric short due to heat and increased connectivity. One thing I have learned is that these old bikes are bullet proof but like to run minty. Electrical connections tend to get dirty over time, so going through all the connections with a cleaner such as Deoxit will make a difference.

Although, I'm thinking one of your plastic multi pin connectors is bad in a location where heat builds up. On my bike a 6 pin connector under the tank created a problem.

I suggest using the FSM to locate and go through all the electrical connections, test the relays and rectifier, battery voltage, wire connectivity, replace the spark plug caps if they are original.

Another favorite would be POINTS and in your cause maybe condensers. These bad boys are the root of all evils on these Old Bastards.

Keep trying by testing and ruling out good working parts. Slow and steady and avoid breaking stuff.

Is there enough gas in the tank? I prefer to run with plenty verses turning the petcock to reserve - always run with the petcock on "On". Does your petcock have just a single fuel line or does it also have a second vacuum line?

... just my 79 cents - and Welcome!

Did you ever figure out what the problem was?? I have exactly the same issue. I’ve gone through the entire bike and cannot find anything out of specification ( I have the service manual ). To my dismay it’s looking like it’s a compression issue. Same year, same problems. Mines blue

Seeming to run okay until engine attains normal operating temp and then runs poorly and won't idle is a classic symptom of too tight valve clearances.

Good Fortune!

Both of the valves are set at the highest clearance. Exhaust .23 and intake .13