KZ440 Ignition issues

I have KZ440 engine that I'm putting on a buggy, and it's got no spark. I went through this whole ordeal and almost gave up trying to get a spark advancer, it ended up being one for one with points, so I got the points stuff too. I hooked the ignition coil up to the points and there is no spark, I have no wiring harness but I'm trying to just do it all as simple as possible. Does the ignition coil need to be connected to anything else to produce a spark?

Yes, it must have power. The coil grounds through the points. 

This link is to a long thread, but it likely has a minimalist electrical system diagram for your 440. If not, one for a 750 twin may work.

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/172746-19...r-mattylight?start=0

I just figured out that I have no spark at the points, either. What can cause this?
 

STOP!!!

Before grabbing any tools, it might help to have a beer in one hand and a FSM (factory service manual) in the other...

If the coil has no power, the points will have no power.

Here s a diagram for a KZ400 where he headlight and tailight are controlled by the oil pressure switch.

 

Here is one for a 440.


 

If there is no power to the ignition coil then no power to the points? The points are before the ignition coil so I don't get it
Does the low oil pressure switch cut off the spark? I don't have the low oil pressure switch hooked up to anything
 

As others have indicated there needs to be 12 volt DC to the coil without it there will be no spark.  Not sue if this will help you or not but take a look at these.

WokkaBuggyBuilder wrote:

If there is no power to the ignition coil then no power to the points? The points are before the ignition coil so I don't get it
Does the low oil pressure switch cut off the spark? I don't have the low oil pressure switch hooked up to anything

 

The coil should have a constant ign live + (from the kill switch)
The points switch the ground side of the coil -
The condenser's function is to reduce "arcing" at the points during switching
The spark is generated when the points open and break the ground (as the magnetic field collapses the HT voltage is induced in the secondary winding)
The oil pressure light has an ignition live (+) to one side and the ground is switched by the oil pressure switch (no link to ignition operation)

Just making sure you 100% know my situation and set up right now. 
I don't even have an ignition switch or starter relay on it right now, I just turn it over with a big cable. Is this how it's supposed to be wired as simple as possible? Can you spot anything that would eliminate spark? I mean seriously, I don't even have a loom, or fuses yet. Low oil pressure is not hooked up to anything. The color brown on the rectifier is the only one that was different from the wiring diagram I was using, so I ignored it and hooked it up in the orientation it was on the diagram regardless of color. See the picture