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USD forks?
- iandz500
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i want to do the mod on my Z500 and was wondering what bikes they got the forks off, would be easier to have a starting point!!
all the USD forks on ebay seem to be really expensive or off trials/motorcross bikes.
Bikes: 1960 lambretta Li125 sold; 2001 Honda CG125 sold; 2006 Yamaha FZ6 sold; 1980 Kawasaki Z500 sold; 1967 BSA Bantam D10; 2008 Aprilia Shiver sold; 2010 KTM Duke 690R; 1954 BSA Bantam; 1980ish Kawasaki Z200
Location: Buckinghamshire, UK
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- Bluemeanie
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1980 KZ650F1, Bought new out the door for $2,162.98!
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- donthekawguy
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USD are the upside down style forks on almost ever bike made nowadays.
Rathdrum Idaho
1971 Kawasaki g3ss
1972 Yamaha R5 350
1965 Suzuki Hillbilly
1964 Yamaha 125
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- Mcdroid
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- Gone Kwackers
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Ok, I give up... what are USD forks?:blink:
USD = upside down forks
Michael
Victoria, Texas
1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A
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- StreetfighterKz
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Conventional forks work just as good as are a little easier to install seals on. Plus are alot cheaper!
That's just my $0.02.
Later, Doug
1978 z1000 Streetfighter
1976 z900 Stripfighter (work in progress)
1983 Gpz750 Resto-Mod
1989 Vmax
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- iandz500
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and the front end needs a rebuild anyway!
Bikes: 1960 lambretta Li125 sold; 2001 Honda CG125 sold; 2006 Yamaha FZ6 sold; 1980 Kawasaki Z500 sold; 1967 BSA Bantam D10; 2008 Aprilia Shiver sold; 2010 KTM Duke 690R; 1954 BSA Bantam; 1980ish Kawasaki Z200
Location: Buckinghamshire, UK
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- Frank
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- StreetfighterKz
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Frank wrote: "Taken for wikipedia, "This is done for two reasons: to reduce unsprung weight by having the heavier components be suspended, and to improve the strength and rigidity of the assembly by having the bulkier and stronger component being directly supported by the pivot" "
The 500 isn't a heavy weight so the strength given from the USD aren't going to matter all that much. Plus my thought is that going with a beefier front end is just going to transmit for forces into the frame which might not be able to handle it. Your frame might not be able to cope with larger convential forks but USD will be over kill.
If you do decide that the extra $$ is worth the look then go for it. Keep us informed with lots of pics!
Later, Doug
1978 z1000 Streetfighter
1976 z900 Stripfighter (work in progress)
1983 Gpz750 Resto-Mod
1989 Vmax
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- Frank
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Post edited by: Frank, at: 2007/12/06 12:03
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- Bad Kaw
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- Flying Squirell
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because they look cool as fook!
and the front end needs a rebuild anyway!
Ha-haaaaaaaaaa! Right you are! And they'd look bitchin' on your bike.
First off the old school components are done in the old school way of making it built to last and over-building in some areas. The travel - as noted - will most likely be more on your stock conventional forks, as compared to USD forks. More travel can get you a more compliant (ie: softer) ride...weigh that in for what it's worth to you. Frank noted that the beefier forks are stronger and will transmit more energy into your frame. Correct. What's that mean? The frame will flex more (when ridden hard) b/c the forks aren't going to, and that energy has to go somewhere. The frame will take a lot of energy and then it will flex some. You will feel it if/when you ride so hard that this happens (ex: a track-day, deep, deep, deep into a corner...and the bike might not want to hold the line as well as you want it to; but it's not like the bike is going to suddenly break in half). Ask youself this: Am I going to ride this bike hard enough for this to matter? If you are and you want to keep the bike, brace the frame in key areas (steering head, swing-arm pivot/rear motor-mount area, etc...).
Fiction: the big forks weigh more than the conventional forks.
Fact: Older forks are (as noted) often very heavily built (another way they gained structural rigidity), most new USD forks and triples (b/c you have to have the triple also) weigh less than the old components...shocking, but true.
Fact: if you go with 17"s (since you will have the forks to take 'em) you will have access to superior tire selection, improved braking, improved handling, less reciprocating mass, etc.
Fiction: The suspension won't work b/c your bike is smaller and weighs less.
Fact: Most likely, the front suspension will be better right off the bat b/c the new bikes weigh about the same as your bike and the suspension will have far superior adjustment capacity. (ex: a Suzuki TL1000S weighs within two pounds of your bike...dude, I lose more than that in a morning...er..."setting"...:lol: )
Drawbacks: it's going to take a bit of work.
Suggestion: look at other bikes on this site to answer questions before you get into your build. My personal suggestion: buy a complete front end, modify the new triple to fit your bike, then bolt the new front clip on and 'go'. (Be cautious at first as you may want to adjust your new front suspension.)
Conclusion: I'm chiming is b/c I've done it several times. It's worth it. The bike handles much better (simple physics, but do be cautious in modifying the rake), looks cool (subjective), and allows access to superior components (tires, brakes, etc...).
Just my 2 pennies; please keep us posted on your progress...I love a good project.
Good luck, man!!!
78 Kawasaki Z1R
81 Kawasaki KZ1000J (mods)
82 Kawasaki ELR Clone (1000 J)
82 Kawasaki KZ750R1/GPz750 ELR-ed
70 Kawasaki KV75
83 Honda CB1100F (few mods)
79 Suzuki GS1000 (rolling frame / project / junk)
84 Suzuki GS1150ES (modified project)
83 Yamaha XJ900R (project / junk)
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- Bad Kaw
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- Flying Squirell
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because they look cool as fook!
and the front end needs a rebuild anyway!
Ha-haaaaaaaaaa! Right you are! And they'd look bitchin' on your bike.
First off the old school components are done in the old school way of making it built to last and over-building in some areas. The travel - as noted - will most likely be more on your stock conventional forks, as compared to USD forks. More travel can get you a more compliant (ie: softer) ride...weigh that in for what it's worth to you. Frank noted that the beefier forks are stronger and will transmit more energy into your frame. Correct. What's that mean? The frame will flex more (when ridden hard) b/c the forks aren't going to, and that energy has to go somewhere. The frame will take a lot of energy and then it will flex some. You will feel it if/when you ride so hard that this happens (ex: a track-day, deep, deep, deep into a corner...and the bike might not want to hold the line as well as you want it to; but it's not like the bike is going to suddenly break in half). Ask youself this: Am I going to ride this bike hard enough for this to matter? If you are and you want to keep the bike, brace the frame in key areas (steering head, swing-arm pivot/rear motor-mount area, etc...).
Fiction: the big forks weigh more than the conventional forks.
Fact: Older forks are (as noted) often very heavily built (another way they gained structural rigidity), most new USD forks and triples (b/c you have to have the triple also) weigh less than the old components...shocking, but true.
Fact: if you go with 17"s (since you will have the forks to take 'em) you will have access to superior tire selection, improved braking, improved handling, less reciprocating mass, etc.
Fiction: The suspension won't work b/c your bike is smaller and weighs less.
Fact: Most likely, the front suspension will be better right off the bat b/c the new bikes weigh about the same as your bike and the suspension will have far superior adjustment capacity. (ex: a Suzuki TL1000S weighs within two pounds of your bike...dude, I lose more than that in a morning...er..."setting"...:lol: )
Drawbacks: it's going to take a bit of work.
Suggestion: look at other bikes on this site to answer questions before you get into your build. My personal suggestion: buy a complete front end, modify the new triple to fit your bike, then bolt the new front clip on and 'go'. (Be cautious at first as you may want to adjust your new front suspension.)
Conclusion: I'm chiming is b/c I've done it several times. It's worth it. The bike handles much better (simple physics, but do be cautious in modifying the rake), looks cool (subjective), and allows access to superior components (tires, brakes, etc...).
Just my 2 pennies; please keep us posted on your progress...I love a good project.
Good luck, man!!!
78 Kawasaki Z1R
81 Kawasaki KZ1000J (mods)
82 Kawasaki ELR Clone (1000 J)
82 Kawasaki KZ750R1/GPz750 ELR-ed
70 Kawasaki KV75
83 Honda CB1100F (few mods)
79 Suzuki GS1000 (rolling frame / project / junk)
84 Suzuki GS1150ES (modified project)
83 Yamaha XJ900R (project / junk)
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- loudhvx
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1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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