HELP! Broken wheel stud!

Hey guys. My bike is a 74' Z1-900 . I was putting my front wheel back on and tightening the last nut. Right when the last nut started getting tight, the stud broke. How hard is that to fix? Please help!

If you're talking about the part labeled #31 in the diagram below, they are still available from Kawasaki. I would be tempted to replace all 4 since whatever (whoever) overstressed the one that broke may have overstressed the others. I recommend soaking the stud(s) with Kroil for 2 or 3 days before trying to twist it out. In the future you really should use a torque wrench for important fasteners. Ed

Those front axle clamps will have a gap at the rear when the front part of the clamp is tight. Do not try to eliminate the gap, as you will break more of the studs.

BMAC-Z1900 wrote: ...74' Z1-900...putting my front wheel back on and tightening the last nut...the stud broke....

Did the stud break off flush, or is there some exposed stump?

Is the broken part still inside the fork tube, and need removing before a new stub can be installed?
Or has the broken part already been successfully removed from the fork tube, whereby a new stud may be easily installed?

Good Fortune!

Thanks for the help guys. I ended up getting the rest of it out with vice grips. I also didnt know that the front of the clamps went on first with a gap in the rear. Very good info. Thanks!

The cap might have an "arrow" casted on its bottom side.
The arrow should point forward when correctly installed.

When installing the clamp (with arrow pointed forward), first tighten the front stud nut (no gap where cap attaches), and lastly tighten the rear stud nut (which still has a gap -- it's the gap that allows torquing the cap to its specified "grip" onto the axle).



Cap correctly installed -- see equal thread exposed on studs.

Cap installed backward (incorrectly) -- see more thread exposed on front stud and less thread exposed on rear stud.

Good Fortune!

Lots of good info on kawasaki.com, including parts diagrams, part names, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc. Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.
Click > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

This link is to a service manual in KZr's FILEBASE.
Click > www.kzrider.com/filebase/doc_download/43...asaki-service-manual





Good Fortune!

The studs are the same as a kz900/1000 exhuast stud if you have trouble finding one.

wireman wrote: The studs are the same as a kz900/1000 exhuast stud if you have trouble finding one.

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=100

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

wireman wrote: The studs are the same as a kz900/1000 exhuast stud if you have trouble finding one.

Click > www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=100

Good Fortune!

It should be the 8mm version like the 76 900 and 77-80 kz1000 might be others as well,I think those 6mm exhuast studs were used on 73-75 z1 900s
The fork studs should be the same on z1 900/kz 650/750/900/1000 also if you have an old set of forks laying around

Thanks, Wireman!

1974 Z1 wheel clamp stud
92004-1009 8X35

1977 KZ1000 exhaust stud
92004-1069 8X30

Z1E's 8mm exhaust stud
92004-1069
OEM: 92004-065 92004-1042 92004-1043 92004-1069 -
Genuine Kawasaki motorcycle parts - fits KZ250 KZ1000 KZ1100 EX305 KL250 KLT250.
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=339

As the 8mm exhaust stud is 5mm shorter than the 8mm wheel clamp stud, am uncertain about any issues that might possibly arise when replacing the 8x35 wheel clamp stud with the shorter 8x30 exhaust stud.

KZ900 continued using the smaller 6mm exhaust stud.
1977 KZ1000 introduced the larger 8mm exhaust stud.

According to kawasaki.com, the 1974 Z1 wheel clamp stud 92004-1009 8X35 is still listed as "Active," which means it's supposedly available through Kawasaki dealerships.

Good Fortune!

Am wondering if maybe this guy used the wrong stud? :woohoo: :lol: