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Rear Suspension Question - 1983 KZ 750 LTD - Omaha
- upncummr
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The rear suspension is fairly squishy. If I push down on the tail section it compresses relatively easily and rebounds without any bouncing. If I do the same thing on my Ninja 250R the tail section doesn't even compress. So there's a night and day difference between the two bikes.
The rear suspension of the KZ 750 LTD is set on 4 which is the firmest setting, but it sure doesn't seem very firm.
So my primary question is what's normal for this bike and what should I expect?
My secondary question is what part(s) are likely to need replacing and whether the stock parts are still available and if so are they desirable?
Based upon the info available in this thread it sounds like the stock components were not very good. kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/570782-rear-...advise-needed#570785
Gary
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- upncummr
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Gary
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- baldy110
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- Dr. Gamma
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Stock shocks would be better used as pogo sticks, than on a motorcycle!!
They have been getting better over the years, but still are nowhere near what a good pair of
aftermarket shocks will do for your bike.
Progessive makes a nice shock for the money, and you can select different weight springs to cover
all different weight riders.
Plus they are cheaper than buying another set of non-working OEM shocks from Kawasaki.
1972 H2 750 Cafe Racer built in 1974.
1976 KH400 Production Road Racer.
1979 Kz1000 MK. II Old AMA/WERA Superbike.
1986 RG500G 2 stroke terror.
1986 GSXR750RG The one with the clutch that rattles!
Up in the hills near Prescott, Az.
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- 650ed
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davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/webc.cg...GON_TWIN_SHOCKS.html
Here's a picture of mine:
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- upncummr
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Thanks for the reply.
In comparing the KZ 750 and Ninja rear suspensions I wasn't suggesting that they should be or would be similar. But I was surprised by just how different they were.
I've ridden the KZ 750 maybe 300 or 400 miles since I bought it. It is well-behaved but then again I've typically ridden it on fairly smooth roads. The front suspension dives a bit under hard braking (but I'd say that's to be expected). I've never had the rear of the bike bottom-out and I don't feel like the rear wheel is hopping around at all.
I do get the sense that there is some shaft-jacking in the rear when coming off the throttle or getting back in the throttle during cornering at high RPMs.
Never having ridden a vintage motorcycle it's hard for me to know what's normal and what to look for.
Gary
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- upncummr
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Thanks for the reply.
Gary
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- upncummr
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Thanks for the information and the photo. I saw this posted in another thread and checked out Dave Quinn's web site. I've saved it to My Favorites for future reference.
By the way, that's a great looking bike.
Gary
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- martin_csr
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- upncummr
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Thanks for the reply.
When we were working on the bike last fall we adjusted the damper setting at the top of the shock assembly to the 4 position. We also used a long hex key to adjust the perch setting at the bottom of the spring. We set it at the lowest step. To our way of thinking that pushed the "collar" upwards and compressed the spring giving it maximum preload and the firmest set up.
Putting it on the highest step would have lowered the "collar" and extended the spring giving it more suspension travel and the softest ride.
Hopefully we did that correctly.
Gary
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- upncummr
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650ed wrote: If you contact Dave Quinn at the link below he will set up a pair to match you bike, your weight, your riding style, etc. Mine are like #4 in the bottom picture in the link.
davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/webc.cg...GON_TWIN_SHOCKS.html
quote]
650ed:
I just sent an email off to Dave Quinn re: information and his recommendation re: replacement components. Hopefully he'll have something he can come up with.
Thanks again for the info.
Gary
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