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Bearing race put in upside down....
- Lazyman06
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1979 KZ1000 MK II frame
1980 KZ1000 C3 police engine
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- Z1Driver
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- love the smell of triple smoke
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If there is no lip on the race to put the punch on, then a cut off wheel with a Dremal might be your only choice. Make a slice as deep as you can with out hitting the neck. Then whack the cut with a sharp chisel. Good luck.
Blue 1975 Z1B
Red 2009 Concours 14
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- Street Fighter LTD
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- TURBO, Its Better to be Blown than Injected
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Original owner 78 1000 LTD
Mr Turbo Race Kit, MTC 1075 Turbo pistons by PitStop Performance , Falicon Ultra Lite Super Crank, APE everything. Les Holt @ PDM's Billet Goodies . Frame by Chuck Kurzawa @ Logghe Chassis . Deep sump 5qt oil pan. RIP Bill Hahn
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- steell
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KD9JUR
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- RonKZ650
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www.amazon.com/4579-9-Way-Slide-Hammer-Puller/dp/B0015DMNIS
If any bit of metal of the race is inwards where the fingers can get a grasp, either the two prong or three in the kit should work. Documentation, instuctions for use are lacking on this kit, but it is kind of easy to understand, it has a cone shape thing you can thread on to force the fingers out to grasp whatever if it's possible to grasp, then the slidehammer will pull it right out and I'd wager without damage, then punch it back in the correct way.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- DOHC
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- Those Doe-Hawks really go!
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Lazyman06 wrote: Was putting the steering stem bearings in and somehow managed to put the bottom one in upside down. I've heard a few suggestions (torching, air hammer, 3 prong slide hammer, buy a new frame.....)
Buy a new frame is my gut reaction. Removing this piece is the the hardest job I've ever come across working on bikes. Damn thing even sent me to the hospital once...
My first suggestion would be to write off this lower race and buy another (assuming it's a factory piece and you don't have to buy the whole kit again). It's likely you're going to mess up the bearing surface.
The manual suggests to pound it out with a drift. Don't do this! In my experience once it gets even a wee tiny bit cocked in the bore it's dead stuck, and requires much hammering (back in, aka the wrong direction) to get it moving again.
I made a puller that has a slug that drops into the head tube, and a plate that sits on the outside face. I put a threaded rod through the whole thing and tighten the nuts to pull it out.
It seems like the parts in this kit might be generic enough to create this same setup:
The slide hammer would also be a good solution, assuming you can get a good grip on the race. Normally this would be tricky, but since yours is in upside down this should help the jaws to grab it. I think there is a factory tool as well for the later bikes (J model?) that is similar to what I described above.
'78 Z1-R in blue , '78 Z1-R in black, '78 Z1-R in pieces
My dad's '74 Z1
'00 ZRX1100
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- Powerstroke_fan
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1980 kz1000B4 LTD- 1327cc 9-1 comp
Ported J model head
Psp-3x cams
RS 36s
Welded MK11 crank
Back-cut MK11 trans
MTC 2 stage lock up
Stretched 4-6 over running Hayabusa rear rim with 190 rear tire
Complete frame brace kit installed
And Much Much more- SOLD
2014- ZX14R all stock for now
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- 531blackbanshee
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however you can save the frame.
either weld a bead around the face as steel suggested or,
weld a plate across the bottom and knock it back out.
leon
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!
billybiltit.blogspot.com/
www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/325862-triple-tree-custom-work
kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/294594-frame-bracing?limitstart=0
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- Old Man Rock
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Dremle tool w/carbide disk the damn thing out.... New race and you'll be good...
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Mcdroid
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- Gone Kwackers
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Old Man Rock wrote: New frame... :blink:
Dremle tool w/carbide disk the damn thing out.... New race and you'll be good...
Absolutely! I had to dremel out my old races (top and bottom) to put in new roller bearings. Burnt up the dremel tool but it was worth it to replace the bearings.
Michael
Victoria, Texas
1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A
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- Lazyman06
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1979 KZ1000 MK II frame
1980 KZ1000 C3 police engine
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- murquiza
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The solution to get the race out seems to be to weld a bead all around the race, when the weld cools down and contracts it contracts the race too and it just falls.
Bikes:
1979 KZ650-D2 SR
2006 Vulcan 2000-A
2006 ZX10R
2008 Versys KLE650
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