Footpeg questions

Hi all, so I have been researching to try to determine which footpegs will fit on a 1990 police frame. There are so many options that my head is spinning. I am trying to minimize frame modifications. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Keith

I did the conversion on my '88 kz1000p. That's the same frame as the '90.

You have to cut the board frame mounts off of you bike. No way around that. So once you're in you're in.

I approached this problem by first making sure I could figure out the brake pedal. I figured the foot shift lever was a no brainer but I did need to make a few mods to that lever because of my foot peg choice.

For the brake I bought a 1983 Kawasaki KZ1000 brake pedal shaft and brake pedal off ebay. The brake pedal shaft fits perfect into the '88 kz1000p frame and aligns without modification to the rear master cylinder, brake light switch and return spring without modification. Well maybe a little hand sheet metal bending. When I put the break pedal on the shaft the foot pad was just where I wanted it. Luck really. So what I thought was going to be the hardest part was in fact the easiest.

I then bought an '83 kz1100 ltd shift foot lever because it was the cheapest lever I could find. This was advantageous because I needed to move the foot pad back an inch and a half so I wasn't shifting with my big toe nail. The shape of the 83 ltd shift lever made this relocation a simple proposition. If I would have used different foot pegs, relocating the foot pad on the shift lever may not have been necessary. To move it back I simply cut cast one off, drilled a #7 hole, tapped it for a quarter inch bolt. bought a grade 8 quarter inch bolt with an appropriately long un-threaded length, and used fuel line for the rubber grip pad.

For the foot pegs I used '84 kawasaki GPZ550 front foot pegs. Why? Again they were the cheapest. Why spend cash if they might not work? They looked pretty nasty but spray paint does wonders. To get them on the bike I found that there was one threaded bushing below the swing are bolt on both sides of the frame that I could use for mounting. I then had to make some brackets to hold the foot pegs. Ultimately I made the brackets out of half inch steel plate. I bought 18 inches of 2 X 0.5 inch steal plate for the entire job. That came to $24. Why steel? Because it was cheaper than aluminium and easier to grind and file. My machine shop consists of a small harbor freight drill press, grinder, hack saw, and file. I could have done the drilling with a hand drill if I didn't have the drill press, but a drill press is a plus.

Before making the brackets out of steel, I mocked them up out of wood. That allowed me to make sure they fit as good as possible while working with an easy to work with material. I knew I was going to have to drill a second hole through the frame on both sides of the bike and the wood mock ups made locating that hole easy. You need to shim the pegs on both sides out from the frame. I shimmed mine out 0.5 inch on the left (shifter) side and 1.0 on the right side (brake). Good thing I bought 0.5 inch thick steal plate. After completing the wood mock up I used the wood parts as templates for the steel parts.

Were the '84 kawasaki GPZ550 front foot pegs the right choice. Well they were a bit complicated to fit because of the mounting points, and the construction required them to be located to the rear by about an inch further back than I wanted. That is why I had to cut the shift lever back. Cutting the shift lever back means I need more lever foot pressure but it is not excessive, and I get a nice positive snap of the lever. If I had to do it again I wold likely try a different peg, but I'm happy with the results overall.

Now for some pictures. Sorry, my photography skills suck.

Thanks for the reply and details. Now that I see how you did it, I now have some insight. Wow, if you had to shorten the shifter that footpeg location seems right over the shaft. I was wondering how those factory plates I have seen fit up but would like to not use them. Your method is cleaner in my view. I have seen some footpegs with a curved forward post and was wondering if that would make up the distance. Maybe a little of both. Thanks again, Keith

One of the things I struggled with was where should the pegs be located exactly. I search the internet for kz1000 pictures showing the manufacturers location of the foot pegs. I found lots of pictures of great looking kz1000s but none with enough detail of the foot pegs. I could see that different models and years used various methods but seeing the exact location of the pegs from a photo showing the entire bike was impossible. So I just did my best.

Perhaps others on this forum could post some close up snaps of the foot peg area of the bike to aid us kz1000p owners in making this conversion? Placing a ruler next to the pegs and the shifter or brake would also be a big help.

With regard to the curved forward post foot pegs, I did consider those. I wasn't sure if my bike frame had the proper mount points or where to locate the mount points if I wanted to add them. Like I said, my frame only had one threaded bushing and those mounts need two. Also, I had to consider the cost. Those pegs need special studs, rubber bushings, bolts and caps. I added it all up and it was rather pricey. I only paid $750 for the entire bike. Why would I spend >$100 for just foot pegs? My pegs and mounts cost $35 plus my time. Yeah, I had to buy the brake parts and a shifter as well, but I always try to keep the cost to a minimum. Perhaps penny wise and pound foolish.

I'm with you on the factory plates. Ugly, but maybe spray paint would fix that. I'm a big fan of spray paint. Especially rust-oleum hammer finished. Also the plates and frame would likely need to be modified to make them fit.

Yes, i do see where some install different rear sets but as you say, hard to justify. I looked at my factory service manual and it shows a pretty decent location. The evaluation of the cost has been the biggest challenge of this build. I will try to keep a good record like you did. I now wonder what the single boss on each side was for? If anyone out there has an idea please let us know.

So, I picked up some 1978 footpegs. With minor modification I think they will work. I am looking for a source for the fasteners that hold on the pegs. Also, looking for the shaft that you attach the brake lever to. Any possible suggestions would be appreciated. Otherwise, the bike is running really well.

Thanks, Keith

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWhen I'm looking for part I always go to www.ddsmotorsports.com . They have the best micro-fiche links I have found. Here is their micro-fiche page for the kz1000-j3 '83 model break pedal/touque link page. www.ddsmotorsports.com/oempartfinder.htm...00-J3-1983/070064E-9

The Kawasaki part number is 43004-1025 for the shaft-brake part you need. The part is listed as "not available" but at least you have the proper part number for your search.

So to the interwebs!

Here is one from partzilla
www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-43004-1025.html

another from cycle-parts
www.cycle-parts.com/Products/85733-43004-1025.aspx

and a quick look at ebay

That one is kind of pricey with shipping.

Get one while they last. Kawasaki doesn't make them anymore.

I don't know what a 90 Police frame looks like ,so I don't know if these pic's will give you any ideas, this is an 80 LTD 1000, ...Pete

Or maybe you can use something like these Billet aluminum pegs with the single bolt hole
Pete

Thanks, I grabbed the one on ebay. Not the cheapest I'm sure but one time purchase. Talked myself right into it.

Those are the one I got. I'm pretty sure that I can get them to work and look good. This forum and you all are great for us! Thanks again, Keith

Good Luck Keith !!
BTW, you should have asked me about them, they are brand new, never been used, I would've sold em for 40.00
Pete