Z1-R seat lock question

When I bought my restoration needing Z1-R, it came with one single key. That key works the ignition and the fuel tank but not the seat lock. From there, I am wondering what to do.

Luckily enough, I can read "818" code stamped on the seat lock so I suppose that buying a "818" Kawasaki key will work. However, I checked on E-bay and such a key costs about $40CDN including shipping. Is there a cheaper way to get a "818" key? (NOTE: There is no stamped number I can read on the two other locks...).

Another option would be to get three locks driven with the same key. I believe this would be a better choice as only one key would be needed for the whole bike. I did not made any search yet but any idea of the possible cost for this option?

Lastly, if I choose second option, I will need to take the seat off the bike witout a "818" key. Is there an easy way to do so?

Thanks!
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EDIT
I just realized that there's also a steering lock on the fork. I checked and it also has "818" code printed on it.

Take the locks you want to change off the bike. Take them and they key you want to use to a locksmith. I do not remember what I paid, but it was pretty cheap.

TexasKZ wrote: Take the locks you want to change off the bike. Take them and they key you want to use to a locksmith. I do not remember what I paid, but it was pretty cheap.

+1, I've done this with many automotive locks, sometimes it works out more expensive buying a brand name key blank than actually cutting the key....

TexasKZ wrote: Take the locks you want to change off the bike. Take them and they key you want to use to a locksmith. I do not remember what I paid, but it was pretty cheap.

Texas, just to be sure:
You said to bring the lock(s) and a cut key and the locksmith will key the lock(s) accordingly?
OR
To bring the lock(s) and a blank key and the locksmith will cut the key accordingly?

Claude. wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: Take the locks you want to change off the bike. Take them and they key you want to use to a locksmith. I do not remember what I paid, but it was pretty cheap.

Texas, just to be sure:
You said to bring the lock(s) and a cut key and the locksmith will key the lock(s) accordingly?
OR
To bring the lock(s) and a blank key and the locksmith will cut the key accordingly?

If the locks can be taken apart, it doesn’t matter which way you plan it. A blank uncut key could be cut and then the locks could be keyed to that code. It would be the most expensive way. The smith would be cutting a code key and keying all three locks. ie ingnition, yoke, and seat.

If you have a key that operates any of the locks then the smith would only charge you for rekeying the locks that won’t operate with your key.

These are what the call wafer style locks, the internal uses plates vs pins to align with the key. With that unless the smith has KHI specific wafers (plates) he won’t be able to rekeying the locks, unless the plate numbers are already in the lock but in the wrong order. Example. Lock ignition key code is 1234. Seat lock is 2341. The ignition key won’t operate the seat lock even though it has the same plates but they are in the wrong order. That being said if the seat lock can be taken apart, then the plates 2341 can be arranged to 1234, thus the key would operate both lock. Your not screwed yet. Let’s say the seat lock can not be taken apart, but the ignition can, then the smith could cut a 2341 key and rearrange the ignition sequence from 1234 to 2341.

Let’s say though that you have a key that operates the ignition but not the other two. For example again if the ignition is 1234, the other locks are not close say the seat is 5678 and yoke is 3456. Unless you have access or your smith has access to KHI wafers he can’t rekey your seat or yoke. Hi could use the #3and#4 wafer out of the 3456 lock but without a #1and #2 wafer there is nothing that can be done.

Again if the locks can be taken apart you could take a chance on buying some used locks and hopefully get the wafers you need.

Claude. wrote: When I bought my restoration needing Z1-R, it came with one single key. That key works the ignition and the fuel tank but not the seat lock. From there, I am wondering what to do.

Luckily enough, I can read "818" code stamped on the seat lock so I suppose that buying a "818" Kawasaki key will work.

The fuel tank lock will work with any piece of metal that fits in the hole. It's not keyed. The fact that your seat and steering head lock are both 818 suggests this is the correct key code for your bike and that someone replaced the ignition switch at some point.

The easiest thing to do is to go to a locksmith and ask them to cut you a key from the 818 code (and then use two keys). Locksmiths have a digital library of all the key codes. I've done this a bunch of times. The place near my house charges about $15.

Another option is this ebay seller: ebay.com/itm/184513138875

As other folks have pointed out, you could also pull the ignition switch and take that to a locksmith and ask them to reconfigure it for the 818 key. It's definitely possible, but I'm not sure how easy it is to get that specific switch assembly apart. They do this with house door locks all the time, but they may not be excited about motorcycle parts.

Thanks guys; I now know all my options!

Because I don't have a "818" key to remove the seat, is there a way to do so anyway? I'm asking first before I force anything that could break...

Claude. wrote: Thanks guys; I now know all my options!

Because I don't have a "818" key to remove the seat, is there a way to do so anyway? I'm asking first before I force anything that could break...

As DOHC mentioned, the smith can cut you the key of the 818 code. They should have a record of the cuts on the key that reflect the 818 code. They put the code on the lock not the cut numbers so only Smith’s can convert the code to a key. If they put the cuts on the lock it would be much easier to make a key. Go to the local lock smith and impress him, say I need a code key cut for a Kawasaki code 818. The code will tell the style of the key bow (head) and the key way configuration.

Without knowing your Z1R directly all I could say is most seat locks are held in with a 6mm bolt. If you could at that you might be able to remove it and get the lock out of the mount and open the seat. Or if you can’t try to get at the seat hinge bolts do the same, might allow you to lift the seat from the right side to get at the seat lock bolt.

Good luck. A bigger hammer is not an option here.

Claude. wrote: Because I don't have a "818" key to remove the seat, is there a way to do so anyway?

The fastest way by far to get the seat off is to go to a locksmith and get them to cut you a key from the code. It should take them less than 5 minutes to make you a correct key.

The second fastest way would be to try to pick the lock.

Removing the seat without the key would be very difficult. I can't imagine it would be worth the time and effort to do it unless the seat lock were damaged and there was no other way to get it to release.

I can cut a key by the code.
I believe your in Canada, me too.
$20 mailed to you.
Best to email me rstnick@hotmail.com

DOHC wrote: The fastest way by far to get the seat off is to go to a locksmith and get them to cut you a key from the code. It should take them less than 5 minutes to make you a correct key.

The second fastest way would be to try to pick the lock.

Removing the seat without the key would be very difficult. I can't imagine it would be worth the time and effort to do it unless the seat lock were damaged and there was no other way to get it to release.

You're totally right; if I'm to have a 818 key cut, I'll wait to have it in order to easily remove the seat!!

rstnick wrote: I can cut a key by the code.
I believe your in Canada, me too.
$20 mailed to you.
Best to email me rstnick@hotmail.com

Good to know! Yes, I'm in Canada.
I'll e-mail you when I'm ready.
I'll need two keys so please, confirm the cost (postage included) for two.
Thanks!