And finally, Wookie's 82 begins !

Still working through mountings for my electrics at the moment, I made these panels way back but now more things are in place they needed some "fettling" I am using the ignition system complete from an 1100 unitrak so the igniter is mounted in here with the plugs for brake light switch, ignition pick-ups and lambda sensor. Brake reservoir is also tucked in here. Everything "JUST" fits inside the modified side panel. Other side should be easier as I'm not having to work around the catch can mount 

PS: I know I need to do lot's of clean up on the welds now I can get at things properly (most was done initially with the motor in place) 

 

Got the other side knocked out today, more fiddly than expected as I had to spot weld in a "landing plate" for the RR (it was sitting up on the flange of the "riv nuts" so probably wouldn't have transferred heat effectively) also here is a 30amp "Midi fuse" for the RR output (I will be using a lithium battery so better safe than sorry - a thermal runaway would ruin my day) also this carries the plugs for the speed sensor, starter solenoid and neautral/oil warning lights. All tighter than a "virgin gerbil" just like the other side (not much real estate to work with) 

 

Well I haven't got much done this weekend but that's the joy of families   (Friday evening and most of yesterday was taken up replacing the timing chain in my daughters Peugeot and this morning Mrs Wookie was to quick to remind me about the broken kitchen drawer as I was heading into the garage) but on the "up side" the postman brought me lot's of electronic wizardry this week   so I have started working out my central electrics. Some of you may remember the two boxes that go under the seat 

 

So now I have converted one to house all the gizmo's and the other remains a fuse and relay carrier (as it was intended) I have also installed some plugs in the case so the majority of my electrics will be contained in what will be a "plug and play" unit which should keep the wiring really tidy

 

It all looks good to me!

So I have been pushing on with getting my frame ready for powder coat (hopefully by the end of the month) many hours of grinding and filing ugly welds (most which nobody will ever see  ) I have definitely learned from this (I should have known better to be fair) that I should have "tacked" things while the bike was still assembled and then fully welded once stripped down. Instead I have fully welded with poor access and as a result given myself more work now 
On another note, while looking around I noticed that the ZR750S (watercooled model) uses a very similar instrument cluster to the ZX6R that I had already (there are some small differences) I had a set turn up in the post as there are a few advantages (more realistic redline - fuel gauge) and they are cosmetically different. Side by side I am unsure but am angling towards the ZR unit - What do you guys think (ZX6R on the left)??

 

PC...personal choice Wookie. 
But 15000 rpm redline... Wow!

To check: Are those two speedo's compatible with the front axle speed pulsing unit that you have: are they common?

Looking good though!

(Will we see paint before Christmas?)

H.
 

howardhb wrote:

PC...personal choice Wookie. 
But 15000 rpm redline... Wow!

To check: Are those two speedo's compatible with the front axle speed pulsing unit that you have: are they common?

Looking good though!

(Will we see paint before Christmas?)

H.


 

Speed sensor is on the gearbox sprocket (will need to compare part numbers) that could be a deal breaker as I have also purchased a "speedo healer V4 that allows me to dial in a code from a phone app to calibrate ref gearing and tyre size.I have downloaded a manual for the ZR so I will check it out
Will have to wait and see ref paint (a lot will depend on how quickly all the other parts get painted, polished powder coated and anodised) also paint will be weather dependent, if the temperature gets too low I will have to wait for spring. On the up side that will be the very last job so next season should be possible (May would be the third anniversary of starting this's little job  )

I haven't made huge progress as it was Mrs Wookie's birthday on Sunday but I did get to spend Saturday in the garage. I knew I needed to do something with the kick stand after fitting the rear sets as my foot was catching when "up shifting". The original has a "kick" in it which brought it out under the new gear lever   Since the "ride height" is adjustable it seemed to make sense to build in some adjustability to the length of the stand also (why do it the easy way  ) I have used the ends of the original and made a new centre section from 16mm "seamless" tube with a 3mm wall thickness, the adjuster and lock nuts are turned from a piece of 17mm hexagonal bar. Hopefully this should now wrap up the fab work 

Been struggling to get much time on the bike but have had a break this week and got a couple of days in. I am still working through the frame grinding, filing and brazing (using brass to fill any low spots etc to smooth the joints) got to say this is not fun   my own fault for laying down lumpy welds and for making the frame so complicated that access to work on it is a challenge in some areas. Have to say the versatility of my lift has been really useful in getting to all it's important little places (I can't make brass flow uphill  ) come to a temporary pause now as I have burnt the tip of my torch so need to get a new nozzle   Will be really happy when this part is done

The ZRX gauges might be good conversation starters as folks ask how you got that roller bearing crank to spin so fast.

Love the adjustable side stand. I seem to remember some company selling an aluminum once a long time ago.

Your patience is going to create a beautiful work of art out of that frame. I wish I could weld.

Thanks Texas, I have pretty much settled  on the ZX6 gauges as the ZR7 uses a different speed sensor (looks the same but different part number) and the cluster is 15mm thicker so although it looks the same the mount would need work (Which is also the top mount for the nose cone) there is a company in the US that do custom faces so I need to contact them and see if they can do a set with a lower red line 

Yes, I meant ZX6. Sloppy typing skills.....

How about one like this? You could tell folks you have Peterbuilt power!