Valve Shims.1089 engine

Checked the valve clearances on my 1089 motor. Most are at the minimum clearance and need opening up.
The shop manual gives all the details and I am confident in doing the job. The manual details doing each valve clearance one at a time, obviously for a dealer with a zillion shims to choose from. I want to know if it is safe to remove all the shims at the same time, so some of them can be re-used on other valves if possible to avoid buying lots of shims. Is it safe to rotate the engine with no shims in the cam followers, or will the excessive valve clearances be a problem or cause damage. I cannot see it being a problem, but I am just checking.
Ride safe Doebag

Post edited by: Doebag UK, at: 2005/10/29 05:06

If by 1089 you are refering to an overbored 900 or 1000 engine then I'm pretty sure you will damage the cam or lifters by not having a shim in them. The cam lobe will contact the edges of the lifter before it hits the smooth surface. I suggest buying on 2.00mm shim and use it as a reference shim. This is the smallest shim and if you can't get adequate clearance with it then you know you will need head work.

good luck,

FYI the "1089" is really an 1100 Kawasaki uses 72.5mm pistons in its 1100s

7.25squared(bore) X 6.6(stroke) X .7854 X 4(#of cyls) = 1089cc

IMHO it would score eather the cam lobes or the lifters to turn over the motor without shims,I wouldn't do it.

Yep, 1089 as in Z1100A and GPz1100. advice gladly accepted, will do one valve at a time then.

Doebag UK wrote:

Checked the valve clearances on my 1089 motor. Most are at the minimum clearance and need opening up.
The shop manual gives all the details and I am confident in doing the job.

Minimum clearance eh? just the intakes? or the exhausts as well? You could remove (or lift) the cam(s) and go down one size on your shims. It's been done before.

The shop manual also gives all the details on how to remove the cam(s)

Post edited by: ~DW~, at: 2005/10/29 23:52