Another valve shim ? for a KZ650

RonKZ650 wrote

If you do this I'll bet 7 of yours will be between .10-.15mm. Only one off by a size or 2.

Ok I'll give it a try. The manual says 0.08 to 0.18 is the acceptabl;e range. I'm putting it back together tonight because I have to get it out of the garage so I can do some painting of furniture tomorrow. But I'll see what I come up with.

Ok, put everything back together with the old shims, swapped a couple to try and get the clearances closer, and now it cranks but won't start. I'm getting spark, it's getting fuel, the only thing I can think of is I didn't get the cam timeing right. I've got to go to work tonight so I don't have time to tear back into it.

Sitting here posting this I just had a thought. I made sure the timing mark was on top dead center, but I'm not sure it was on top dead center of the compression stroke. I feel stupid. I'll check that first thing in the morning when I get off work.

As for gaskets you could spend an hour or more cutting the gasket or you could find a Gaskets on Demand Dealer near your location and get the correct gasket cut in a matter of min's for a small fee. I know that this is the best way to find quality gaskets for bikes that have gaskest that are obsolete. they are online with a dealer locator at www.Gasketsondemand.com

Good luck with the Shims.

It is possible you got the timing off, but if this is a new (to you)bike that did not run before, I would get the valve lash up to par and when you put it back together just make sure your timing is correct. If the valves are held open at the wrong time or held closed at the wrong time it won't run properly (or at all if it is way wrong)

Wolfman, how much did getting a gasket from these guys cost you? I see no price index, and I was just curious before I go and call people.

Bud, I feel your pain. I am going to end up buying shims myself. I had heard that someone here could trade in shims at there local place, and get what they needed for free. I can't remember the post, but maybe you should see if this person would help you out. Let me know if you find anything out.

The bike was running before I took it apart, so I know I did something wrong putting it back together. Now I'm wondering how to tell if I have the crankshaft at TDC on the compression stroke after I believe I have the cams wrong. Normally I'd watch the valves as I rotate the engine to make sure I was on the compression stroke. Now I'm not sure what I have to do. Gonna go read in the manual and see if it says anything about this.

Or maybe I'll just go buy a lottery ticket and win and then hire someone to finish this up!:blink: :pinch:

Bud1 wrote:

Now I'm wondering how to tell if I have the crankshaft at TDC Normally I'd watch the valves as I rotate the engine to make sure I was on the compression stroke. Now I'm not sure what I have to do.

Bud,

An easy way to tell if a piston is on compression (stroke) and coming up to TDC is to:

1)...Remove the spark-plugs.
2)...Push your left thumb down on the #1 plug port.
3)...Crank the engine w/starter (bump it)
You will feel the pressure as the piston comes up.

Hope it starts for ya soon.

Post edited by: ~DW~, at: 2005/11/01 00:47

Post edited by: ~DW~, at: 2005/11/01 00:48

~DW~ wrote

1)...Remove the spark-plugs.

2)...Push your left thumb down on the #1 plug port.

3)...Crank the engine w/starter (bump it)

You will feel the pressure as the piston comes up.

Will this still work if the cams are installed wrong and not opening and closing at the correct times?

Until you install the cams, there is no difference in tdc compression or tdc exhaust. The cams determine this. Take your points cover off and grab a manual, it will show you where tdc is on the marks. Line the exhaust cam gear mark up on the head to valve cover surface, make sure you have all the slack out of the chain. count the teeth or mount the idler gear up and line the intake cam up to the head as you did the exhaust. Exhaust marks go to the front, Intake marks the the back. MAKE sure you have all the slack out of the chain. Reinstall your tensioner and you should be good to go.
Remember, It's been 10+ yrs since I done this but I believe I am pretty close.
Les

I'll give her a try. Not sure when I'll have time to try and straighten it all out might not be until this weekend. With all the suggestions plus my shop manual I think I got it. Will let you all know.

Bud1 wrote:

~DW~ wrote

1)...Remove the spark-plugs.

2)...Push your left thumb down on the #1 plug port.

3)...Crank the engine w/starter (bump it)

You will feel the pressure as the piston comes up.

Will this still work if the cams are installed wrong and not opening and closing at the correct times?

Bud,
I was thinking your cams were on, chain was tight and just valve and points cover's were removed so you could see the action as the engine cranked.
Sorry, I should have made a; * "number 4"

[ok, I will do that now ]

* 4)...Look at the "T" mark under the points cover AND the "in" and "ex" marks on your camshaft/chain sprockets.

If everything lines up (arrows and marks)
per your manual ?
As Les said; "you should be good to go!"

(If everything does not line up? you will have to line it up, per manual and per Les's instructions.
If the cams are way off? dont crank the engine until you get em right. Some say it's possiable to bend valve's that way.)


P.S. I just did all this a couple of weeks ago, when you get it right ?...........
Your engine will start with just a tap on your starter button.


Post edited by: ~DW~, at: 2005/11/01 21:24