Piston Hole Kz1000LTD 1982

Thankfully you will not be needing any, but in case anybody else does, you can get a set of eight genuine factory followers for only $214.24 from Webike.

japan.webike.net/ps/12032-1002/#!search&p.k=12032-1002

Zed, thank you. I can now confirm that it’s just a a question of a little sanding to get them going

I Built a little contraption with an isolation tube, so I could do it uniformly and at the same time protect the valve seal. 

it has worked a treat. Saved a bunch of cash and time on this one!






 

Great news and a great idea with the insiulation.

All set. Tappets move beautifully now. Oil all over… 

Next.

I've heard of a valve lapper but bucket lapper, think You just created a new tool!! Perhaps a patent pending is in order, ha Very resourceful!

Some advance this weekend. Cams are in place. Would like your opinion on the pictures. Intake cam is spot on with the head line, but the exhaust looks a bit “up”. Do you guys think this is right? Everything turns nicely and was not as difficult as I expected. 
My only real concern has been the bolts for the camshaft caps. Manual calls for 1.7 kg-m, and some of those bolts were “feeling” really soft for that torque. Have gotten all to 1.2 kg. Two of them won’t “lock”. Kinda scary.

I would appreciate your feedback on my “arrows”. Thank you guys!

 

Two more pics for clarity…

 

I was looking at Jonas’ thread on his engine rebuild and as Scirocco pointed out, I think I am one tooth off in my exhaust camshaft,
with the arrow pointing slightly upwards, but the indentation at the edge of the camshaft not being completely parallel to the head.

will have to redo it… 

Off a tooth based on FSM illustration below:

Yes, Daveo, I’m afraid that is the case.

thank you!

Yes! It's one tooth retarded on the exhaust and on the inlet the marks won't line up until the camcover with chain guide is fitted.
Just make sure the tooth count from the exhaust to inlet cam is correct and you must not fit the tensioner until the cam cover is fitted.

About the capbolts. I would not go higher than 12Nm on them and make sure the treadholes and screws are cleaned with carbclean and dry before torque them with a  wrench that is working good.
and forgot : when screwing them down use just half a turn on each screw in the pattern from manual.do not screw the hole screws down in one operation.