1978 kz 650 sr - rocker cover removed - questions about service to top end

Thanks Ron. I just watched a video that the guy did exactly what you are saying. You are correct about my tensioner, apologies I referred to it as automatic but yes you are correct. the factory manual says to remove the tensioner and the tach gear for some reason? i think thats more geared toward removing the whole head tho?

ok so I got all the valve shims changed out as follows....

measured      .12          .09      .09      .18          .05      .04      .08      .08
shim               270         270      280     245       260      270    250      250
new shim        265         265      270     250       250      260     245      245
new measure   .17         .14       .19       .13         .15     .14       .13       .13    

I had to rob the original 245 from 4 to use on 8, so 4 got less good but still in ballpark. I dont have a 275 so 3 is high end of the range. Im thinking I may drop that back to 280 but .09 is getting close to out of range too on the bad end so I figured I was better to err on the high end. I had two other bikes worth of shims, so I just used what i had to get everything as close to good as I could. Any thoughts? 

I also ended up completely untiming the camshafts and my first attempt at getting them back was a total fail. I had to read the manual and noticed it says to remove the tensioner, so I will do that and try again. I was also not starting with the exhaust cam, so i made a few errors. No damage done I tried to slowly turn and it was clearly not ok so I stopped and disassembled again. Can someone tell me the trick to getting the cam side that sticks up to sit down without using the bolts and the cradle to crank it down? Push on it first? The manual says to do the left hand side first, so I am guessing that is why? Any help is appreciated. 

xc


 

so Ron i misread or didnt understand well and well..... i buggered up the timing. DOH!!  So ive been trying to get it back with no luck. Just read the factory service manual and i was doing a bunch of things wrong. Hope this procedure is correct..

remove tensioner 
set timing to T 
lay in the exhaust cam first, then lay chain tight on it, then set in intake cam, both cams using the T mark lined up with the case  (i have been having a hell of a time getting them to sit in their spots as one end is kicked up and im unsure of how to start tightening the caps worried about stripping something using the cap to pull the cam shaft into place i guess
count the chain teeth in between, no slack between cams  (this part also has me confused 
tighten caps on left side first, then right side 
install chain guide
install tensioner and rotate engine slowly to get tensioner to take up slack 
check timing marks again 

One method for installing the cam bearing caps is to use a clamp to hold the cam in place, another is to use studs longer than the cap bolts and bring the caps down with nuts then exchange each stud for the correct bolt one by one (thanks Wookie)

The clearance spec is 0.08 to 0.18 mm.  It looks like you can go one size smaller on several of your shims.

I set shims between .006-.008" as they have a tendency to close up if anything. Setting them to anything less than .005" is asking for extra work on shim under setups (650/750)
 

Yes thats the spec but as i have learned the spacing decreases over time so one should really aim for the top end of the spec. So i did that but i also used what i had in my pile of shims. Yes agreed he 13s would be bettwr off 18s but i dont have those shims 

.00 anything is way too tight. Spec in the factory manual is a min of .08 max of  .18 

mine are all under the max except the one which is, i believe so close it wont matter. 

Ill give this a go today. Thank you 

sf4t7 wrote:

One method for installing the cam bearing caps is to use a clamp to hold the cam in place, another is to use studs longer than the cap bolts and bring the caps down with nuts then exchange each stud for the correct bolt one by one (thanks Wookie)

So i got it done yesterday. followed the factory manual to the letter. It worked, no real issue getting the cams to sit down, started on the left, gently lowering one cap then the next, manual says to go numerical.  Thanks so much for the help. today I will re measure the valve clearances and pray i didnt do any bad math. Button her all up and see what happens! 
 

I know Im basically just talking to myself at this point but I want to circle back and tie this off. 
I torqued it all down this morning and measured all the valve clearances. The math from my previous paperwork and what I was expecting line up more or less but less, as in the spacers I used didnt give me the exact clearances I should have gotten. I think i was nervous when I was measuring originally. SO...... with my new found skill and understanding from you guys I tore the cams off again, this time maintaining the timing thank god and replace two of the shims. 
the numbers I ended up with are as follows:

.14   ,14  .14 .13 
.13   .11   .15   .10 

Id like to set the intake side to a closer spec like the exhaust but I need to order some shims. for now I think the numbers are ok. well within spec except for the one .10 which is in obviously just low. I learned alot doing this job about how easy the head is to work on and how accessible. Im thinking maybe do a valve job in the future for fun. 

Going to re clean the carbs and button it up once the cover gasket shows up. Had to order OEM off fleabay due to it being NLA. 

cheers and much thanks 

I would go with those numbers and just check clearances at the end of the season or the start of next years.

all in spec