Wired George coil mod w/ Dyna S - Only 10.5 volts

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I don´t know if no one come up with the idea to made some simple brackets that gives you a lot of space?!?!

 

 

Yes! Done that like the second/bottom pic only last week for a friends bike.
Fitted a rivinut in the top bend for the coil so as not to fiddle with a nut and washer .
Tried the top design type first but the upright section cannot be vertical but more like a "Z" and the bolt heads and nuts foul the angle which forces it into more of an "S" shape which has too much give and allows the coil to flex.

In the picture above can you describe where the arcing is happening?  Also does anyone have a suggestion for replacement coils?

Just as an alternative, once the screw is tight could you not put a blob of black RTV over it - that would both insulate it and protect the connection from moister related corrosion 

wrote:

In the picture above can you describe where the arcing is happening?  Also does anyone have a suggestion for replacement coils?
 

Do you see that lower screw on the coil?
The clearance between that and the mounting post/spacer to mount the coil to the frame was close enough that current was arcing across.  Were the screw to somehow back out, it wouldn't take much for them to touch.

The electrical heat shrink wrap on the post completely solved the issue.

wrote:

wrote:

In the picture above can you describe where the arcing is happening?  Also does anyone have a suggestion for replacement coils?

 

Do you see that lower screw on the coil?
The clearance between that and the mounting post/spacer to mount the coil to the frame was close enough that current was arcing across.  Were the screw to somehow back out, it wouldn't take much for them to touch.

The electrical heat shrink wrap on the post completely solved the issue.

Perfect!  Thanks!  Still looking for coil suggestions though.
 

wrote:

wrote:

wrote:

In the picture above can you describe where the arcing is happening?  Also does anyone have a suggestion for replacement coils?


 

Do you see that lower screw on the coil?
The clearance between that and the mounting post/spacer to mount the coil to the frame was close enough that current was arcing across.  Were the screw to somehow back out, it wouldn't take much for them to touch.

The electrical heat shrink wrap on the post completely solved the issue.

Perfect!  Thanks!  Still looking for coil suggestions though.

 

I would still recommend the Dyna green coils regardless of the issue we've been discussing.  I know OEM points and coils have their merits, but Dyna coils and ignition are just fantastic.

I wrote to Dyna about 10 years ago about this very issue. Their response was something like. 

We don't care. We've been doing it like this for years!

IIRC I ended up using a plastic screw on that end. 

Great suggestion!!!
 

How about replacing the metal stand off sleeve/spacer with plastic. Solid plastic rod of the correct OD and drilled out. 

They are metal to dissipate coil core heat to the frame.  Guess they are required for coil longevity. 
That's why sleeving them with heatshrink is the best way as the metal collar still has the same contacts for heat dissipation. 
 

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They are metal to dissipate coil core heat to the frame.  Guess they are required for coil longevity. 
That's why sleeving them with heatshrink is the best way as the metal collar still has the same contacts for heat dissipation. 

 

You would still have the bolt that could transfer heat.

I think Warren meant if you used a plastic screw.  I dug into mine last night.  I did not have shrink tubing big enough to fit.  Since I want to ride today I just put some gorilla tape over the screw head.  Then after putting it all back together only 2 cylinders fired, fml.  It was late in the garage with minimal light.  So this morning, as soon as the sun come up, I'll pull the tank back off and see where I fucked up.  On a side note to myself, I need to get better light in my garage!  I just moved down to NC last year and haven't had time to setup my garage the way I want.