Eletrical Power Requirements GPZ1100--should have done the math

Thanks to all on the info.  To answer some of the questions. 

1.  I pulled the Rectifier and tested it with a diode tester (on my voltmeter)..and rectifier tested good...all lines. 

2. I pulled the stator...completely fried, nasty smelling burnt on oil, and I traced the failure to a melted wire bundle where all the wires come together to feed out the cover.  It defiantly got really hot. 

3. Pre installation of Dyna2000.  No problems with charging that I know off, never had a failure or blown fuse, never low battery, new 3.0ohm Dyna Coils used when I first got the bike, 12000 miles since then.  Wiring, followed exactly the directions, used the (per manual) hot lead of the coil to power the ignition computer. The wiring of the computer is completely isolated..only connection is the hot lead on the coil, per their instructions.    I even completely remove the old stock ignition,
check every wire for a crimp or short nothing. 

4. I believe now, that maybe this stator was getting bad before this happened and just needed that extra kick to burn through...it is 41 years old. 

Good news, my new parts arrived today, and I will begin the fix'in part.  While I have it apart I'm replacing a lot of leads that look suspect...amazing what you can get new from webike.japan.net.   I love that web site...drooling over those sweet parts.  Check out the stuff from PMC...   Complete new wiring harness. 

Again thanks to all the smart people for helping, I will report more as I learn stuff.

PS: Forgot to add, put the battery on the charger and it charged right up no problems.

577Nitro
 

This has been a journey of extreme frustration.  To date this is what I've done:

1.  Reduced the electrical load by replacing the headlight with  a  LED 4 amps VS 9 amp's - ish.   

2. Went back to the new 3.0 ohm coils.  (green)

3. Replaced the fried stator with a new one from Ricks Electronics.  

4. Installed J style battery box to clean up the under seat mess.  

5.  Tested all the leads for continuity.

6. checked the wiring diagrams for both the J model and GPZ to make sure its all right.  

7. Replaced the rectifier/Reg with a new one from Ricks Ele.  

8. Replace a number of battery leads with new or NOS.

9. Replaced the battery with correct YUSA model. 

10. Fully charged the battery.

11.  Tested the  voltmeter on the tach to verify it is correct. (it is)

12.  Tested per the Service manual everything with the charging system...I mean everything.  With some weird shit.
       Weird shit:
       a  The new regulator has only 5 wires instead of six??  WTF?  Its missing the brown.
       b.  The new stator is putting out 65 volts AC, manual says 50Volts.
       c.  The rectifier tested good on old and new. 
       d.  The regulator on the new was only putting out less than 1 volt like .7 to .9??? Manual says >15 volts (exactly this in the manual:  -15 )  <<< what the hell does that mean??         
            negative 15?  
       e.  The old regulator is putting out 14.7 to 12.5 volts but never less than 12 volts.  <<< I think its still good, but manual says if the stator fry's its the reg/rec.  
       f.   Took it out for a test spin close by the house, voltmeter never got above 10.5 to 11 volts.  If i remember right it used to read 13 volts and higher.   
       g.  Low speed 4000rpm below seemed to run OK.   Hard acceleration goes good until about 6000 then it cuts out then comes in etc...  Lower rpm runs OK.  WTF?? 
       h.  Volts never go above 11 no matter what.  
       i.   Meter again verified as accurate.   
       j.   All fuses checked, all good, non blown, no fried wires etc....
       k.  All electrics working fine lights horn etc... 
       l.  Check all the grounds (again), checked the Dyna2000 leads all good.
       m.  Did notice on hard acceleration the tach was jumpy, never done that before, however, the lead now comes from the Dyna2000, not the  old system.     

     13.  Next thing is to wait for the bike to cool off enough that I can replace the new reg/rec with the old and test it as above.  
     14.  If it still has issues then back to the OEM ignition and test.

Any ideas or thoughts welcomed...electrical shit will drive a man to drink I think sometimes...especially on old stuff.   I fought this stuff all the time on my old 1950 Bonanza...

After the last retrieval the wife finally just said just go buy a new one!  Hummm, those Z900RS's look mighty fine.

577Nitro-

 

Hi Nitro - a couple of things, my new RR is also 5 wire.
Is your replacement a MOSFET unit? (Transistorised) if so it doesn't need the ign live (brown wire)
What type of battery have you fitted, is it Lead/Acid - AGM or Lithium ?
Ref the output: a diode RR has a fluctuating out typically between 13.5v and 14.2v - a MOSFET unit has a more stable out as this is needed for a lithium battery (I believe the -15v means a constant 15v output without fluctuation)
I would suggest you contact Rick's and confirm the RR is suitable for the battery type you are using (some MOSFET's are only suitable for lithium batteries)

Wookie:  

It’s a lead acid exact model replacement.   I was going to give them a call, or email, I think your right about it being MOSFET.   When I purchased it I just selected was as supposed to be the right model…not thinking about battery type.   

I did switch back to the old one, and it diffantly is toast. 

The good news is that the switch to the J style battery box has been great, a lot cleaner and easier to work on.

Thanks
577Nitro-

Update:

After spending much time testing and retesting I can find nothing wrong with the electrical system that would cause the blown fuses.  Remember, I've never had this problem previous to the installation of the Dyna2000 kit.  

Good news is that the charging system is working 100% correctly now, with ranges from 10.5 to 15 volts as described in the manual.  What I found on that issue was a buried deep frayed main wire from the Rec/reg that was going to the battery.  It was corroded inside the wire under the plastic insulator.  So I replaced that wire with new, heavier gauge one, and alls good now on that issue...and I am using the MOSFET Reg/Rec with no problems.  

When I tested, after solving the charging issue, the bike ran ok below 4000 ish then would go great and cut out, or run fine to 8000 and blow the fuse.   I decided enough, I pulled it all out checked the wires, I saw no shorts or fried anything.  I repackaged it all up and called dyna and they are sending a new unit.  Mean while, I cleaned and serviced the old stock advancer and I'm reinstalling the complete OEM unit and will test to see if the issues persist.  

I may have a brand new un-used Dyna2000 kit for sale for a very fair price!

577nitro

 

Glad to hear you got to the bottom of it, as I keep saying corrosion is the biggest enemy of the electrics on these old bikes ( the insulation hardens then cracks, once the moisture is in the problems go from there) good that your RR is also compatible with the new battery  (some MOSFET's are advertised as not suitable for lead/ acid batteries) - you are getting there 

wrote:

Glad to hear you got to the bottom of it, as I keep saying corrosion is the biggest enemy of the electrics on these old bikes ( the insulation hardens then cracks, once the moisture is in the problems go from there) good that your RR is also compatible with the new battery  (some MOSFET's are advertised as not suitable for lead/ acid batteries) - you are getting there 

 

Absolutely agree with you there on the corrosion, you can see it under the insulator as a bulge.   Once it reaches that stage it cracks and your chasing your tail trying to find the problems.  

I'm seriously thinking of just making a all new harness.  webike.japan has some new manufactured harnesses but not all makes for the KZ/Z1 stuff.  I'm thinking of getting the KZ1000J/R one and just modifying it to work, or get the connectors, wire and peg boarding the whole thing out.   Guy could make some money I think doing this...hummm

The other good news is that the LED light works great!   Really lights up the road.

Thanks for all the input.

577Nitro-

It would get quite expensive to scratch build a loom with the number of different colours to buy and some of the colours may not be easy to source. I think adapting a "J" loom makes more sense. If you are unsure where things don't match up let me know, happy to help you sort it out

Update:  Shipped the Dyna2000 back for a new one swap out.   In the mean time I got a NOS OEM igniter and tested it today.    Ran great, no charging problems, no blown fuses nothing.   

I’m really hoping I just had a bum unit and Dyna2000 will ultimately work…I can tell the difference in power for sure…mostly down low.

577nitro-

I'm sure you will be fine, there is nothing in an ignition module to cause the issues you have had under normal circumstances 

Update:  I got the new unit in, haven't installed it yet.  I went back to the stock configuration, and it's been running fine with the new stator/Rec/Reg and Dyna 3.0ohm coils.  I talked to the 
tech at DynaTek and he said you pretty much have to upgrade your charging system on the really old ancient bikes, they just can't handle the load.  

577nitro.

I have no idea about compatibility between stator windings but allegedly, the KZ1000 Police bikes have a higher capacity alternator to cope with the sirens, radios and lights used by the police.