Bike started to run real bad today electrical or carbs??

so today after a long trip that included some highway riding i noticed the bike was a little rugh .
then after i got home and i took if for a ride again the bike had been standing only one hour.Then it started to backfire and run like crap also sounded more deep tone from exhaust.I managed to get to a gasstation and had
some tools with me ,but not so i could remove the sparkplugs .First i drained all the carbs then took off the
petcock bowl .It was some rust and crud in the bowl .It was no filterscreen inside the bowl.I regret i did not take a look at the bowl earlier.There are no filters on the fuellines so the carbs has got some crud from the
tank into them thats for sure.When i bought the bike about 14 days ago i drained the carbs and there was some
rustparticles in the fuel but not much.In the petcock bowl it was more. I did not think about drainig the petcock bowl then. But im not sure if this is fuel related because yesterday i had the tank off and found a
strange connector or diode that has 3 wires going into it. It is placed under the coils and is white rubber
and it slides into a bracket sitting on the coils i think. When i had a look at it yesterday the stop lamp
started blinking but stopped blinking when i touched it some more . it is a bad connection inside the diode or relay or what it is. I will take a better pick when i get time to take the tank off again.I have posted a teporary pick of where it is placed. I also discovered today at  the gas station the the blue wire that is
connected to the oilpressure switch is in bad shape when i touched it the oilpressure lamp started to blink.
after some more wiggelig on the wire the oilpressure lamp stayed on as i should. That was what i had tools
to do at the gasstation. Then bike fired up fine but when trying to run it it was coffin stubling backfiring
and i had problems getting home. Can this electrical connectors make the bike run bad or do you think this is
rust that got into carbs today after some higway riding and some high rews??

 the bike has been running smooth since i got it .The day i bought it it was running on 3 cyls but that was a easy fix just changed sparkplugs and caps and adjusted the mixture screws .

What colour wires are going to this unit? I suspect it's a brake light failure switch which won't effect the ending running!

Hello Wookie58  i can not check that before tomorrow, but i think one is yellow and one gray the third im not sure i will check tomorrow. The unit they go into is like a box filled with brown epoxy and they looked busted up at the point they enter into the box. By the way i forgot to mention that on the last short trip i was first driving to a store 5 minutes from me and the last 50 meters before parking outside the store i could smell burnt electrical wiring .I parked the bike and tried to smell if it was from my bike.But the funny thing was that there was 2 girls  with electrical standing upright bikes (not sure what they are named in english )  parking 2 meters from me so i was not sure if  the burnt electrical smell was from the bikes the girls had. At that point i notised that the strange white diode/relay/connector  box
had fallen off its fastner and was laying down on the valvecover. After that i started the bike and drove about 5 minutes before i understood that i had to go to nearest gasstation to check more because the bike was running so bad. It was no burnt electrical smell on the trip from store to gasstation and the 3 fuses in fusebox onder left sidecover was ok.
From gas station and home the bike stumbled bacfired and exhaust sounded more deep tone and i had to rev the engine to get home.

And a little more to add. I was planning to post in the other tread i started about the electrical mess confusion  .I yesterday repaired the front brakelight switch there was a bad connection in the wire going to that switch because when i unhooked the wire it snapped off even if i was gentle so i guess it was just hanging in one or two copper wires. I then put on a new female connector and the switch worked fine so now both front and rear switch is working ,maybe i mixed up te 2 wires to the switch?? but i dont tink that matters ??

In addition to any electrical problems, it is clear that the fuel system needs to be carefully cleaned. If there is significant rust in the tank, a chemical cleaning will be necessary. If there is a lot of sediment in the bottom of the tank, you will need to use a physical rather than chemical removal procedure.
The fuel lines will need to be carefully flushed or replaced, and the carburetors need to be completely disassembled and carefully cleaned. That is the only way to get the dirt and rust particles out of all the tiny passageways.

Please see below (if the unit in question is the brake light failure switch) also switching the wires on the brake light switch is not a problem, it's simply a "make" or "break" connection between the two wires.

 

Thanks Wookie58 for your information i read this now after working on the bike in the garage.I will test to disconnect the three pin plug tomorrow.Today i have done alot of other things trying to solve the poor running.
So today i started to investigate why the bike suddely starting to run like crap.
Thanks to Wookie58 and others for explaining about the electrical stuff.
After i have had done this today i have just started the bike and rode 20 meters out of my garage and out to where i park it  because it started raining. On that 20 meters it did not run well some backfiring and
struggle a little when release the clutch i will tru to take a longer trip tomorrow. I think this is some
electrical problem that has happend.Valves are in spec checked them a few days ago.The bike did run very well
for about 14 days.I will take the testride and after that i will try to open the headlight to take a look into the wires there. The colis only gets 10.0 volt so maybe something happened yesterday since i smelled burnt electrical wiring ??

The low coil voltage is common and the reason for fitting a by-pass relay as previously mentioned. The problem with testing voltage on "disconnected" wires is there is no load so poor connections throughout the circuit are masked. You could follow the guide and work back through the circuit to find and eliminate all the poor connections but if everything else electrically is working as it should the smart money is the relay (which will also give the strongest possible spark when starting)

Ok Wookie58 tomorrow i will testrun the bike and if still runs bad i try to do the relayfix .Im hoping i can use the headlight relaykit i bought earlier .I have used a almost similar kit on another bike so it got more power to the bulb in headlight i use a 100watt bulb without any problems .

Rolf1976_KZ900 wrote:

Ok Wookie58 tomorrow i will testrun the bike and if still runs bad i try to do the relayfix .Im hoping i can use the headlight relaykit i bought earlier .I have used a almost similar kit on another bike so it got more power to the bulb in headlight i use a 100watt bulb without any problems .

Attachment not found

That should do the trick, 100watts is 8.3amps at 12v so will do the trick (what is the current rating of the relay?)

I just took a closer look at the kit.I dont think i can use it because the wiring is thinner exept the red wire .The connectors also look bad quality.The other kit i have used for the headlightmod on the fj1200 looks much better. I find a pick of that kit tomorrow . I also starting to wonder how to connect the wires even if i look at the diagram that is for the coil relay mod.
I dont know if i will have to solder to the coils or if i can splice with the red/yellow wiring ? it is very late now so will continue tomorrow drawing how i probably will do it and then se if you guys find something wrong

This kit will do the job, the ground current is less than 1amp (switch current for relay) each coil is 3-4amps (less than a 60w headlight which would be 5amps each) and the relay is rated at 30amps which is more than adequate
PS: if you are still running "contact breaker" ignition you might want to consider changing the points and condensers (dependent on condition) condensers are a component that will "break down" when hot towards the end of their life 

 

Thanks Wookie then i may use the kit i have, but need better quality terminals. In this post i have some info on the relaykit that was used on the FJ I thaught that it was not going to be  too difficult installing the relaymod for coils,butnow im confused. In the coilwiring diagram there is a wire named power to coils and im unsure if thepicture is of the coils or the pickupcoils .Also dont understand how to wire things up so i drawed 2 differentdiagrams to see if you guys can confirm if i can use any of them? When it comes to electrical stuff im no good.I think i will have a look inside the killswitch and headlamp to se if there is some burnt or corrodedconnections today also.