KZR's Bikes of the Month for 2024

KZ1000P Headlight and position lights aren't working

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07 Nov 2023 17:09 #891437 by penguinphan
Hey guys.  I have a question for you.  I just got the 95 KZ1000P out of the shop and all was great for about 3 rides.  Now I've noticed that my headlight doesn't work.  I checked further and no matter what position the light switch is on (PO or ON) none of the lights will come on (headlight, instrument cluster lights, turn signals or tail light).  The turn signals and brake lights to work when I use the turn signals or hit the brakes, so I'm thinking that the issue is with the switch itself.  Has anyone run into this issue before?  I'm not the most mechanically capable person, so any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.  I did a quick visual check of the fuses and they all look to be fine.  Thanks Again.

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08 Nov 2023 00:09 - 08 Nov 2023 03:31 #891450 by Wookie58
Check your 10amp fuses, the PO and ON position on the right handlebar switch supply voltage to the fuses that power the lights. You can also complete the below voltage checks at the right handlebar switch

 
Last edit: 08 Nov 2023 03:31 by Wookie58.
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08 Nov 2023 04:46 #891455 by TexasKZ
Keep in mind that those old glass tube fuses can look fine when they are not. The fuse link inside the tube is soldered to the end caps. Age and vibration can cause the solder to fail, thus breaking the circuit. The only way to be sure that type of fuse is ok is to pill it out and test it with a meter.

1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough

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08 Nov 2023 06:22 #891462 by penguinphan
Ok, I will check the fuses today.  Thanks for the advice!

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08 Nov 2023 14:02 #891483 by penguinphan
You guys were absolutely correct.  I pulled the fuse and it looks like the solder failed at the end of the fuse. Put a new one in and the lights come on just like they should!  Thanks again!
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08 Nov 2023 20:19 #891502 by sf4t7
You might want to consider upgrading your fuse(s) to the blade type (ATC or Mini ATM).  If you use the correct bullet connectors the fuse holder will plug into the existing harness. An inexpensive upgrade, I did it on my Z1 revival project.  Cycleterminals.com has a large selection of  quality connectors and kits.  I'd also recommend the crimping tool they sell for the best results.


Scotty

1974 Z1A
1015
welded Z1 crank
Andrews 1X Cams
Delkevic 4 into 1
Superbike bars
530 conversion
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09 Nov 2023 09:13 #891522 by penguinphan
I honestly didn't even think that was possible.  I will look into it.  Thanks!!

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10 Nov 2023 13:42 #891554 by penguinphan
I'm waiting to hear back from cycleterminal.com to learn about switching to blade fuses, but I have a quick question.  What size is the headlight fuse?  I am using a 6x30mm 10a fuse and it looks like it is a little bit too long and if it shifts the headlight goes out again.  Should it be a 6x20mm fuse? Do those even exist?  Thanks!

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10 Nov 2023 14:16 - 10 Nov 2023 14:20 #891556 by sf4t7
Cycleterminals is a one man operation, Joe may not be able to get back to you right away.
My Z1 only has one fuse, so I used one mini ATM holder.  Looks like you have 2 fuses (from partzilla diagram)  You can use a 1 into 2 female bullet connector for the power into 2 fuse holders and then single connections into the harness.  I bought the TK174 kit for the connectors, there are enough for your entire bike.  Also the crimp tool they sell - not cheap but it's a high quality tool.  I'm no electrical wizard, Wookie and the other guys may have a better way to update your fuses.  
You may also want to add a relay for your ignition coils, but that's another deal entirely.  There are many posts already for that job.


Scotty

1974 Z1A
1015
welded Z1 crank
Andrews 1X Cams
Delkevic 4 into 1
Superbike bars
530 conversion
Last edit: 10 Nov 2023 14:20 by sf4t7. Reason: added relay info

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03 Jun 2024 12:32 #900174 by penguinphan
So it looks like this issue has popped up again. I have checked all the fuses with a multimeter and confirmed that they are working. I replaced the right hand switch with a new one and everything works (run switch, starter). Has anyone run into this before?  I’m thinking that I will need to check the wiring where the right hand switch connects to the harness, but if anyone has any ideas, I will appreciate it. Thanks, Matt

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03 Jun 2024 12:39 - 03 Jun 2024 15:41 #900175 by Wookie58
If you have voltage on the lighting fuses (measured with everything connected - have you checked both sides of the fuses) then the right switch must be ok because the lighting fuses are fed by that switch !
PS: I am assuming you only have voltage on the light fuses when you operate the right handlebar switch to either the "PO" or "ON" positions ?
Last edit: 03 Jun 2024 15:41 by Wookie58.
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03 Jun 2024 19:09 #900188 by penguinphan
Thanks for the quick reply, Wookie. I only checked continuity on the fuses, not voltage. I am a rank amateur at this.  How would I test voltage on the light fuses?

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