1982 KZ250 LTD Belt Single- No Spark

Hello,Long-time lurker, first-time poster. I've been working through a KZ250 barn find I picked up and have been combing through everything this forum has to offer regarding wiring and related info.So far, I've had to replace quite a bit. To start, I installed a new CDI because the original one was grounding itself and instantly blowing the main fuse. The new CDI solved that issue. I had to eyeball most of the wiring, but now all the lights work, including the neutral light, and the main fuse no longer blows.The starter solenoid also had to be replaced since the starter button wasn't working. I was able to bypass it to get the bike turning over, then replaced the solenoid, and now the starter button works—in the center position of the handlebar toggle switch. I assume the left and right positions are kill switch functions because the button doesn't work in those positions.At this point, though, I still have no spark.I checked the ignition coil, and the wire basically fell out of the rubber boot at the coil end. I replaced it with an aftermarket coil that fits, but still no spark. I also checked inside the headlight, and everything seemed okay. Power is definitely getting to the system—when I press the starter button, I can feel some warmth, which tells me there's current.The stator and rotor look to be in good shape. I figured I don’t need to worry too much about those right now since they’re just for charging, right?I’ve got a new rectifier on the way because the old CDI would cause the current one to smoke when connected. Maybe there’s a grounding issue near it, though I doubt the rectifier itself is the fix.I’m wondering if the kill switch might still be interfering, preventing the igniter/CDI from grounding properly. The coil is getting power, but I’m still not getting spark. I even tried jumping the coil directly from the battery—still nothing. That’s when I started thinking maybe the igniter needs to ground itself somehow for the spark to happen.So here’s my big question:Can I bypass the kill switch? And if so, can I run a lead from the igniter to the coil as a bypass?Would it make sense to splice the yellow and yellow/red wires together at the kill switch, run them directly to the igniter, then ground the igniter’s green wire to the frame or battery negative? Then just run a positive lead from the igniter to the coil?Honestly, I’m not sure if any of that makes sense. Any help getting spark would be really appreciated!

I think you might benefit from reading the "elec fundamentals and fault finding" guide link is in my signature. The coil should have an ignition live from the kill switch, the CDI switches a ground to the other side of the coil. If the kill switch is getting warm then that is an issue ! yes you can by-pass the kill switch as a test but I wouldn't recommend it as a permanent solution (if the throttle sticks open trying to turn the key off may be tricky !!)