Starting restoratin project KZ650

G'day from South Australia. I am finally getting into my project bike, a 1977 KZ650, ( I think ). The import certificate says it is a 1977but I am thinking the actual manufacture date maybe 1976. The engine number is KZ650BE094244 and the frame number is KZ650B-524522. It has the spoke wheels and one of the carbs has a accelerator pump fitted. Starting to look like the motor might be fitted to an earlier frame. I want to get a complete gasket and seal kit for it, any suggestions. For future reference is it possible to remove the valve stem seals without totally destroying them. I think the gasket kits come with the new seals so I ruined them. If I wanted to remove them is there a special tool for the job?.
After vapor blasting the motor what do you use to seal the finish to prevent the corrosion coming again?

According to this web site and your frame serial number it looks to be a 1978 model.

www.jarlef.no/Kawasaki/Series/Z/650/z650b.htm
 

Numbers also here.
www.kzrider.com/filebase-alias?task=down...id=1178&catid=64&m=0

Factory gaskets and seals are the best, though there is no kit.

Not claiming I know anymore than anyone else, but the numbers you posted fall within the frame and engine numbers I have found and made sense of (not claiming they are 100% correct) for a 1979 B3 model.

Thanks for the replies, I think I am getting closer to finding what year and model 650 I have. The fuel tank has the smaller letters in the "kawasaki" I still can't find out about the accelerator pump on one of the carbs. It only appears on very few models I have looked at. It wasn't an optional extra was it

If you vapour blast the engine pieces you don't need to seal afterwards.  They will retain their shiny presentation.

Vietvet wrote:

Thanks for the replies, I think I am getting closer to finding what year and model 650 I have. The fuel tank has the smaller letters in the "kawasaki" I still can't find out about the accelerator pump on one of the carbs. It only appears on very few models I have looked at. It wasn't an optional extra was it


 

If you have the small lettering tank logo that is 1979 and later. Accelerator pump carbs were only used on USA models starting in mid 1978/1979 for emissions purposes. If you have a cam cover and air box that has tubing on them its for the emissions equipment and most likely originated in the USA.

Bikes that were imported from Japan to Canada had no emissions equipment. I believe this is the same for bikes that made it to UK/Europe.



If you check out the link in my earlier post you can see picture examples of B3 stock paint bikes.

 

hardrockminer wrote:

If you vapour blast the engine pieces you don't need to seal afterwards.  They will retain their shiny presentation.

My experience tells me otherwise. I had a valve cover done, and after maybe two years there was that white crystalline powder forming in places. 
I like Cerakote glacier silver for my satin silver parts. 

Stereordinary wrote:

hardrockminer wrote:

If you vapour blast the engine pieces you don't need to seal afterwards.  They will retain their shiny presentation.

My experience tells me otherwise. I had a valve cover done, and after maybe two years there was that white crystalline powder forming in places. 
I like Cerakote glacier silver for my satin silver parts. 

It will be interesting to see how the Cerakote "clear" works on my parts (when I get to that stage !!)

Vietvet wrote:

... After vapor blasting the motor what do you use to seal the finish to prevent the corrosion coming again?

Sharkhide was mentioned here on kzr. but that's it. just a mention. no pics or what he did or anything. not even sure he actually used the stuff.

Casewell, Eastwood, or West Marine might have something.

I agree on using quality OEM gasket, where ever possible.  Many times you can find the part number on Partzilla or similar, then hunt down a cheap gasket from eBay.

And never reuse valve stem seals.  Get some new Viton seals.  A member here sell them, or used to anyway.  

I was going to check the rubber damper on the secondary shaft but the 3 Allen head bolts holding the starter motor clutch on will not budge, been applying RP7 over the last couple of days but I think if I try too hard they will snap. They are clean no corrosion just very tight. Any suggestions, I don't  want to apply too much heat because of the rubber damper.