Updated Camshaft Tensioner

Scirocco wrote:

You can modify your stock "automatic" cam chain tensioner to a manual cam chain tentioner.
The spring in the stock cam chain tensioner is to weak to set the chain slack right.
I do modify the manual cam chain tensioner, works perfect for me.
You can adjust the tension perfect on a idle runnig engine with the force of your finger tips only.

 

When you adjust with finger on idle how do you know when its correct, sound?

If you feel some light pulsing forced feed back between the finger tips you are good to go !!!

wrote:

Hello,

...  My tensioner on the bike, after so many years ended up with the 10mm lock bolt (with locknut) starting to strip the aluminum housing's threads of the tensioner 😕 ...

   Mama Kaw didn't spec torque for the locking bolt on the OEM Z1 manual tensioner.  There's so few threads in the aluminum they're somewhat delicate.  We've seen many tensioner housings at swap meets where the threads in the tensioner housing were stripped from well-intentioned,  overzealous tightening.
     The way the flat on the plunger is ramped, as long as the tip of the bolt is reasonably snug against the ramp, it's extremely unlikely the plunger could retract at all.  We've always just decidedly snugged the bolt after slack adjustment.  About what a firm tightening of the JIS cross-head screws that hold the two halves of handlebar switches is all we do for the plunger lock bolts, then snug the locknut.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Scirocco wrote:

If you feel some light pulsing forced feed back between the finger tips you are good to go !!!

And mentioned earlier:  "You can adjust the tension perfect on a idle runnig engine with the force of your finger tips only."

Is this adjustment method also recommended for APE (and similar knock-off) manual tensioner types?

🤔

On the early Z1 bikes 40 inch pounds is listed in the Clymer which is all you need. The early 73 has a much smaller (thinner) thread area which can be stripped very easy. The  housing changed somewhere in late 73 I believe but I still only use 40 inch pounds. So if you miss a shift at high RPM you run a chance of pushing that plunger back loosening the cam chain, even though there is a slight taper on that shaft, end results could be nasty. 

Here is from kz900 workshop manual with the torque specs :

 

daveo wrote:

Scirocco wrote:

If you feel some light pulsing forced feed back between the finger tips you are good to go !!!

And mentioned earlier:  "You can adjust the tension perfect on a idle runnig engine with the force of your finger tips only."

Is this adjustment method also recommended for APE (and similar knock-off) manual tensioner types?

🤔

Just a quick yes or no will do...
Thanks

😎

Here you go a page on the ape site with  instructions and links to videos on how in install and adjust their manual tensioner.

aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html

For those that have modified the tensioner : is that because the treads on the lockscrew is stripped ? i dont see the reason for doing that.

No, not because the treads of lock screw is stripped.
You can adjust the cam chain perfect under running condition. 

Scirocco wrote:

No, not because the treads of lock screw is stripped.
You can adjust the cam chain perfect under running condition. 


 

Okay i tought the tensioner was made to do that from factory ,but if the spring is weak or camchain is stretched and  sprocket rollers sliders etc
worn i can understand that it can help to quiet down the camchain to install a screw and tighten it more.