Kz1000ltd running rich? Help needed

Thank you for your reply. I don´ t know what an AFR gauge is, sorry.

I will postpone all work until I get the choke plungers, and then give it a go again at trying to get the carbs ready

 

This website talks about Keihin carbs, but the same principles apply to Mikunis.

www.shiny-red.net/guides/keihin-carburetor-jetting/

cartal wrote:

Thank you for your reply. I don´ t know what an AFR gauge is, sorry.

I will postpone all work until I get the choke plungers, and then give it a go again at trying to get the carbs ready


 

AFR = air/fuel ratio

cartal wrote:

Thank you for your reply. I don´ t know what an AFR gauge is, sorry.

I will postpone all work until I get the choke plungers, and then give it a go again at trying to get the carbs ready


 

The green digital gauge on your handlebars, or is that voltage?

Im no expert but i have done some wrenching over the years i would check this:

 carbs :  make sure that throttle butterflies open fully  (and close fully) . Check throttle cables that pull and return travel fully.
  Also check that carbslides open / lift all the way. You can check that just using a clear tube stuffed in the ovale hole in rear on carb intake.Also you can check the diagphram lifting the slide with finger and then hold your finger over the ovale hole .The slide should slide down very slowly.
  
If holes in diaphragm the slides may not lift enough and that result in to litlte vacuum so to little fuel mix get sucked up the main jet and into the intake.

Make sure the main idle adjust screw is almost at its starting point.(that is before carbsynch) ,but you can take a look at it and see if it is turned almost out so the butterflies are closed

One thing to try:  when riding the bike try to give it some choke if it revs up and run better it is too lean. if almost stops/bog down it is to rich.
check fuel level with clear tube. And.. on some carbs it is possible to install the floats upside down .Not saying you done that but worth checking.

Ignition:  check electronic timing using a timinglight. also check mechanical timingmarks
.Im no expert in electronics but i think when you install the dyna s you completely
eliminate the ignitor box in your bike.Im not sure if you did that. i just read some of it in your engine rebuild tread.

Check valve clearance

Try to take the airfilter out and see if that makes it rev over 6000.But you should not rev it over 6000rpm when not braked in.and not when bike is standing still...

Play with the idle-mixture screws try more out . _ Or you can let the engine run and then turn on one screw at time in until that cyl stops and then out again until it fires and try to find the spot where the rpm is highest. do the same on all 4 . BUT!!! .... there is a problem with that and that is your engine is not braked in and that is not something you want to do before rings have bead in causing glaced bores . so that is not an option now ,but if you can run it you should keep the revs under 3 000 on the first short runs. Then you want to increase the load riding up to maybe 5-6000rpm doing some hard accelerations and engine braking to get some  combustion pressure behind the rings so they push into cyl bore  .The time it takes to bead in the rings is short so you will need to load the engine  the first 100-200km   if you let the bike idle with little pressure behind rings you miss that chance and risk the rings never bead in.
well that just some things to check it is middle of night here so have to sleep.

Update one more thing to check.   Try to open the fillercap and ride maybe the vent not working so it is a vacuum lock and check that the fuel line does not get kinked when hot and that fuel filter is clean/ big enough.basic check that it gets enough fuel.Check vent tubes on carbs


 

That is voltage. Didn´t know such thing existed!

cartal wrote:

That is voltage. Didn´t know such thing existed!

AFR is really good but to get the best results you need a lambda sensor mounted in the exhaust collector

Got the plungers back from @zed1015. Thank you!!

they look amazing. Got the little rubbers too, so it’s carbs weekend ahead.

will surely need help, so I’ll keep you posted.

cheers

The wiring harness may have some oxidized connections throughout the bikes system go through and clean each connection point

Solved! I guess the repaired plungers ended solving the entire situation.

engine starts, runs and behaves like a champ. 

no idle holding, no overrun, no hesitation and I got (for a moment, as im breaking it in) over 7000 rpm, so that problem is solved too.

thank you so much for your help.

Congratulations !! Glad you got it fixed !