Bad IC Ignitor?

I did the attached test after going through the manual. Battery, coil and pickup coil all check out.

Doing the test below with the Ignitor on the bench, multimeter set to 20K:

1 14.1
2 15.94
3 no reading, stays on O.L
4 51.9
5 105
6 117

corrected values

I am not very good with electrics, but based on #3 alone it does look good. 

Am I missing anything before chasing down an Ignitor and dumping more money into this pig?

Thank you.

Also, with ignition on and touching a screwdriver to the pickup coil I do get a spark. 

Thank you!

Can you post a picture of your meter (set up exactly as you were using it) are you sure (especially with 3 & 4) that the meter polarity was as per the instructions
If you get a spark with the screwdriver test on the pick-up that would suggest that the igniter is OK !! (pick up triggers the igniter which triggers the coil

What is happening with the bike?

I will leave you with F64 on this one as he is intimate with the 400/440

Thank you. 

Bike was running ok for a week or so after a long rehab. I started having issues with intermittent stalling and then runaway revs. Based on a number of search results it sounded like pilot jet. I made sure the  pilot jet plugs (home made) did not impede flow from the main jet, and passages seem clear past the pilot screws.  

I did a valve adjustment, they were a little tight. 

Then I did a carb sync. 

After starting the bike (very hard to start) I realized it was only running on the left side. I pulled the plug and it was fouled pretty badly. Cleaned right plug and it ran briefly on both cylinders, but very rough, then died and would not start. 

After installing new plugs, no spark. 

Voltage at the coil with lights on was 11 - 11.5, so not sure if that is too low?  

I went through the ignition system tests starting on the bottom of page 275 in the manual. 

Primary and secondary winding tests were within spec, as was the pickup coil. 

Trouble starts with ic igniter out of circuit test as listed above. 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Thank you. 

Bruce

 

Which spark plugs are you using?

Have you tried to start the engine on starting fluid?

BR7ES was all I could find quickly, so I bought them and unscrewed the resistors. 

FWIW I keep swapping the old and new plugs and neither provide spark. 

I did try starter fluid when only the left side was firing, but it did not help. Only after cleaning the plug did it start so I was hoping new plugs would solve the issue. 

Thank you. 

How big is the gap between your rotor and the pick up?

Also what is your battery voltage with the key on?
Measure the voltage with the probes on the battery posts( metal part of battery)

The faster the engine spins the better the trigger signal.

Does it still spark when you touch the pickup with the screwdriver?

Are you running a spark plug wire cap with a resistor inside as well?

Thank you!

I think I spotted the issue. See the picture below as it appears the pickup has been knocked over. The cover has a repaired hole, so that might explain what happened. 

My caliper batteries just took a dump so I do not have exact distance. 

Battery 11.86 with key on 
12.59 off

 New and old plugs will spark touching the pickup.

NGK LB05F states resistor cap. 

5K Ohms tested on each. 

Good eye!!!! I think you figured it out.
Yeah, your pickup is nowhere near the rotor.
You may want to either go with a non-resistor ngk cap or try to locate some Nippondenso equivalent non resistor spark plugs.
You only need one resistor.. either the spark plug or the cap. Not both.

I have to assume that is somewhat delicate.  Do you know if that is glued down or are there screws from the other side?

Last question, what is acceptable voltage at the coil?  With all the PO cutting into the harness I hope I do not have an issue somewhere in the labyrinth.

Thank you very much for your help!

Bruce