Wiring diagram with munit - REVIEW

Do you mean to a mounting bracket ?

Yes some like that.

Will any DTM mounting bracket fit these cheaper connectors I have purchased on Amazon ?

gordone wrote:

Yes some like that.

Will any DTM mounting bracket fit these cheaper connectors I have purchased on Amazon ?

I don't know is the simple answer. I made my own from 2mm sheet metal (just remember the slots need to be dovetailed for the connectors to hold in place, easily done with a flat file)

ahh  
I will se if I can find some finish made, don`t think it will be so many that is loose.
maybe a cable strip around them is good enough also...?

gordone wrote:

ahh  
I will se if I can find some finish made, don`t think it will be so many that is loose.
maybe a cable strip around them is good enough also...?

I have made the slots a tight fit so nothing else should be required (hopefully )

Good day sir,

I have make update to the drawing below and have two questions:

• I have added a USB charger to the AUX output (see the drawing below). The charger comes with a fuse, but I don't see the reason for adding it. The AUX output from the M-unit is already capable of protecting itself from a short circuit, correct? So, if a short circuit occurs, I will lose power to the speedometer, but the engine will continue to work as normal. Have I understood this correctly?
• Regarding the switches for fuel level, oil pressure, etc.: Looking at the drawing, I assume that the speedometer supplies 12V to the circuit, and the ground is connected after the switch. From the speedometer's point of view, is this correct?
  In other words, I don’t need to supply 12V separately to the circuit between the speedometer and the switches for fuel level, oil pressure, etc., correct?

gordone wrote:

Good day sir,

I have make update to the drawing below and have two questions:

• I have added a USB charger to the AUX output (see the drawing below). The charger comes with a fuse, but I don't see the reason for adding it. The AUX output from the M-unit is already capable of protecting itself from a short circuit, correct? -Yes  So, if a short circuit occurs, I will lose power to the speedometer, but the engine will continue to work as normal. Have I understood this correctly? - Yes
• Regarding the switches for fuel level, oil pressure, etc.: Looking at the drawing, I assume that the speedometer supplies 12V to the circuit, and the ground is connected after the switch. From the speedometer's point of view, is this correct? - Yes
  In other words, I don’t need to supply 12V separately to the circuit between the speedometer and the switches for fuel level, oil pressure, etc., correct? - Yes, connecting 12v to the switched side would cause a "short circuit" when the switch operates

PS: I assume you know your diagram is missing the grounds for the starter solenoid and the USB charger ?
 

Thank you, yes I will add the ground to the diagram.

I found the connectors you show me to be good to working with, but how are blocking of the pin if are not planning to use all?

I have now set in a dummy cabel in the whole.

@Wookie58 when it comes to the main connectors for the bike—connecting the left and right handlebar controls and speedometer wires—my original idea was to place the connectors inside the headlight.
However, after looking into it today, the available space inside the headlight seems too small.So, I guess I need to place the connectors between the gas tank and the coils?
And split the wires 50/50 to the left and right, routing them around the steering hub and into the headlight?I was thinking of using heat shrink tubing around the cables, but I’ve noticed that it’s quite stiff.
I’m not sure if that could be an issue due to mechanical stress when turning left or right while riding.

 

You could use a "non-shrink" fabric sleeve in this area, just make sure when turning the handlebars left and right you have left enough slack

Like these?

should I use small cable zip on the cables before  I put the cable in the sleeve, to avoid cables moving  each other?