Ignition switch

 

82 kz550A

I'm hoping someone could make a wiring diagram of how I can wire the switch pictured. I understand the theory regarding wiring it to a CDI bike but how would this work with points? Aside from the switch cutting 12v to the coils in the off position it not sure how I would kill the bike. Would I wire black/white to the ic igniter ground and green to the battery ground? That doesn't seem right to me though. Hoping the more electrical inclined can help!! 

Thanks a ton I appreciate all the help KZ Rider offers and the kind souls willing to share their knowledge!

Is the rest of the electrical system stock (handlebar switches etc)  and why do you want to fit this type of switch ?

Ditto Wookie's statement..WHY? Kawasaki never used a ground in the ignition switch circuitry. Lawnmowers (riders) do it a lot of times but that's a whole different bag. Seems backwards to me, can't shut the bike off in case something goes array quickly. That's why the "Kill" is readily available on the throttle side of bar. This, what You're proposing makes it wanky to fumble in a far removed location, just saying. Can it be accomplished..of course but again..just because it's a smoking deal on Amazon for 4bucks from China probably isn't the best resolve.   

I got the bike with no harness so I'm making my own. Had the old switch laying around. In theory would I just be able to ground out the ignition coils to kill the engine? The handle bars controls with it are the ones but they've definitely seen better days. I also don't have the oem ignition.

I'm not sure a 40 year old CDI unit would take kindly to being grounded out in this way. The OE kill switch breaks the "+ supply" to the coils. would probably be cheaper, easier and more reliable to source a harness on Ebay etc (I don't know what level your electrical skills are at but building a harness is not a quick or easy job to do correctly)

So that's the route I'll take. Use the key to cut power to the coils with a kill switch wired in between the ignition key and coils. The switch would also power a fuse block for my accessories, lights, etc. Ideally, I want my key switch to be one wire 12v in and have one wire for 12v out but they're not as common and I would assume I'd need one to withstood the amperage of whatever my main fuse will be, probably 30A, since the switch will give power to everything . The ones I find online (not amazon) appear to be rated to a max of 10A. If I went with one with a lower amperage rating I could just wire a 30amp relay after the switch?? Im probably in a little over my head but hey, it is what it is. 

If you source a used stock ignition switch you can just use the power in/out contact pair which are designed to power the whole of the bikes electrical system (16-20 amps) to power your fuse block and it will "look right"