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Sticking, Squeaking Front Brakes
- Skyman
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- 1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD 1982 KZ1000-M2 CSR
Is there supposed to be constant brake pad pressure on the discs? If so, how much is "normal". Shouldn't I be able to spin the front wheel and have it go for a while before stopping? Is there a way to adjust the "brake off pressure"?
I already replaced the fluid and bled the lines. Situation didn't improve.
FYI, my bike has dual discs. And the wheel spins freely and noise-free with the calipers off.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
West Linn, OR
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- mariozappa
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and then see if the problem reoccurs?
1977 KZ650C1
and the KZ650/KZ750 Conversion
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- Skyman
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- 1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD 1982 KZ1000-M2 CSR
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If the pistons are sticking, is there a way to lube them, or do I need to rebuild them?
West Linn, OR
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- mariozappa
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The piston just slides back and forth with a rubber seal against the walls to keep the fluid in. There is really not much to it.
That's just me though. I'm sure if somebody else has an idea, they will chime in.
1977 KZ650C1
and the KZ650/KZ750 Conversion
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- Skyman
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- 1978 KZ1000-B2 LTD 1982 KZ1000-M2 CSR
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If they've never been apart, the return hole could be full of GUNK. I know some I have taken apart were full of gunk that kept them from working right. But once I cleaned them up and blew out all the passages the worked fine.
The piston just slides back and forth with a rubber seal against the walls to keep the fluid in. There is really not much to it.
That's just me though. I'm sure if somebody else has an idea, they will chime in.
I assume the return hole is in the M/C, not the caliper, correct? Is it a "big deal" to take apart and put back together? Anything I need to be wary of?
West Linn, OR
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- mariozappa
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The calipers come apart pretty easy.
Search the archives, there are some pretty good directions from other members there on what to do.
1977 KZ650C1
and the KZ650/KZ750 Conversion
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- BSKZ650
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77 kz650, owned for over 25 years
77 ltd1000, current rider
76 kz900, just waiting
73 z1,, gonna restore this one
piglet, leggero harley davidson
SR, Ride captian, S.E.Texas Patriot Guard Riders.. AKA KawaBob
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- tellietubbie
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I've just bought some:woohoo:
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- loudhvx
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- KZr Legend
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A rebuild and cleaning of the groove should fix it.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- KZQ
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- Walking Behind the Corn May Not Be All That!
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Seems like a lot of good advice here. I'd lean toward the corrosion in the calipers, or at least gelled brake fluid in the calipers along with an accumulation of gunk. I've had luck with just pumping a bunch of clean fluid through the system. If that doesn't work and you decide to try to rebuild the calipers you'll soon realize that getting the pistons out isn't really easy, once they're removed from the system.
Quick solution Pressurized Air! Be Frikking careful! Put several layers of terry cloth between the piston and the backing and with your precious digits out of the way use an air nozzle with a rubber cone on the end to pump air into the caliper. The piston will be expressed with enough force to crush your finger if it's in harms way.
Don't be discouraged by minor pitting. Clean it up with some 600 emery cloth. If you can't smooth out the corrosion, a different caliper is probably cheaper than a new piston.
KZCSI
www.KZ1300.com
Riders:
1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100
Projects:
1985 ZN1300
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- wireman
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ive used dot5 for years in everything from dumptrucks to motorcycles,have NEVER had any kind of braking problems.ive never heard of anybody changing brake fluid every couple of weeks:whistle: any kind of brake fluid should be changed every couple of years,especially dot3-4 because it turns to trash;)DON'T DO IT! That is, don't use DOT 5 brake fluid! It is silicone and it is NOT hygroscopic. Meaning: instead of moisture that penetrates the brake system being absorbed and evenly distributed throughout the brake fluid, the moisture will collect into "puddles" in the brake system and create serious problems. Silicone is sometimes used for racing applications, but only when the racer is going to change the brake fluid every couple of weeks or so. Nobody is going to do that with a street bike, and nobody I know with a 30 year old KZ (even if in mint condition) with street tires is ever going to brake so hard and so frequently on the street that they will need the extra "boiling point" margin of DOT5. Also, it is not compatible with DOT3 or DOT4, so unless one plans to change a bunch of brake components switching back and forth is a bad idea. Use DOT3 or DOT4. I'm sure some may disagree, but thems the facts. (Can I climb down off this soap box now?) Ed
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