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New bars for 79 KZ750 twin?
- KZ7501979
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Thanks!
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- Biquetoast
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- King Jeremy The Wicked
Got the "Daytona" model for the second 750 for a slightly more stock look, but still only a 4" rise.
I have the "Euro" model on the rebuild 400, and I'm not too fond of the position; A bit too pulled back and downward for my wrists...
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Sold
kz750twins.com
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- speedadict
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- KZ7501979
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I would be more than happy to take some close up pictures of the drag bars installed on my 79 twin if it will help you.
That would be awesome. I couldnt for the life of me figure out how to mount everything to make it work.
Thanks for the other bar tips as well!
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- Voodoosoup
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- speedadict
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These are the bars I have,
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DRAG-BARS-MOTORC...dZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
So if yours are at least 28" wide, they will work. More to come...
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- KZ7501979
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My pics will have to wait till tommorow...
These are the bars I have,
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DRAG-BARS-MOTORC...dZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
So if yours are at least 28" wide, they will work. More to come...
Those are the exact bars I bought.
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- speedadict
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- King Jeremy The Wicked
I almost thought it wasn't going to work, and the brake line was severely cramped in around the headlight. I had to re-route it across around the other side of the back of the headlight as well, but then it all fit.
I eventually just replaced it with braided stainless steel. I would look at that bent old stock hose every time I had to do a hasty stop and cringe...
...I didn't have that much trouble with throttle cables...oh and I ran the clutch cable down the other front chassis leg to take up some slack, but I'm sure the right thing to do is to get a shorter cable(s)...
(1.) '75/'76 KZ400D - Commuter
(2.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(3.) '78 KZ750B3 Twin - Commuter
(4.) '75 KZ400D - Sold
kz750twins.com
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- steell
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I have to say that even with the "Superbike" bars it's extremely tight.
I almost thought it wasn't going to work, and the brake line was severely cramped in around the headlight. I had to re-route it across around the other side of the back of the headlight as well, but then it all fit.
I eventually just replaced it with braided stainless steel. I would look at that bent old stock hose every time I had to do a hasty stop and cringe...
...I didn't have that much trouble with throttle cables...oh and I ran the clutch cable down the other front chassis leg to take up some slack, but I'm sure the right thing to do is to get a shorter cable(s)...
When you figure out what cables work well with Superbike bars.
Be sure to let me know
KD9JUR
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- speedadict
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To install your drag bars, first understand it will not be a quick 10 minute project... In order to install them, the fit will be very tight, but it works with the stock brake line, and the stock length clutch cable. When I installed my bars, I had to loosen the nut at the top of the brake line,(at the master cylinder) and rotate it slightly upward. (I loosened mine only enough to rotate it, and did not even need to bleed the brake when I was finished) Keep it loose while your working with everything and tighten it up last. More difficult than the brake side of things was the clutch cable. Shortly after installing my bars my clutch cable snapped. I ordered a new one from Z1 enterprises. You need to take your time and be a little creative about how it is routed so that it works freely, and doesn't look stupid. The cable goes from the lever, to behind the speedo, around the headlight and down the right side frame tube. It crosses over at the bottom of the frame and into the engine case. Use some black zip ties to keep things looking nice, and keep the cables away from the hot pipes. I have not had any problems with this set up, and the look and feel is well worth the effort! Keep the faith, it will work if your patient! When you get good at this, try going to clubman bars! What a pain they are!
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- speedadict
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