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any tips for bleeding brakes?
- IowaKZ
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- '80 G1 Classic
There has to be either air somewhere in the line, or a leak somewhere. i don't think that theres a leak because no fluid running out.
any hints or tips would be appreciated.
thanks
Dale
1980 G1 Classic
Bettendorf, Iowa
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- IowaKZ
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Also, I had the whole master cylinder apart and had a heck of a time getting it back together. ended up using the shop vac to create negative pressure inside the cylinder to allow me to get the rubber gaskets to fit without cutting them up.
1980 G1 Classic
Bettendorf, Iowa
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- FloridaBiker
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It is the front brakes that cause all the trouble.
I have a Mityvac brake bleeder (under $30) which Sucks from the brake bleeder. I rate it's usefulness at a 7 (out of 10) It takes about 10 minutes and 1 can of brake fluid.
My favorite tool is a small pump oiling can - the kind with a squeeze handle. Under $3 at the hardware store. I connect it to the bleeder nipple with a hose and pump back up to the master cylinder. I rate it at a 8.5 out of 10.
It takes about 6 minutes and a 1/2 can of fluid.
Useful tricks:
If bleeding without above tools put a hose on bleeder running to a jar on ground so that the end of hose is in brake fluid. That keeps you from sucking air back in when you use the pump and bleed method.
Buy the good brake bleeder nipples with a rubber seal around the threads. eBay. That keeps you from sucking air back in when you use the pump and bleed method.
If using one of my favored bleeding tools put a hose clamp around the handlebar and brake lever. With the master cylinder cover removed slowly tighten the clamp until you see a few very small bubbles rise in the reservoir. You will only be pulling on the lever a small fraction of an inch (maybe 1/4" ) The purpose of this is to put the port of the m/cyl pushrod directly over the return port in the m/cyl. This allows more air to escape from the system.
Several times during the bleeding process flex and tap the front brake lines to encourage bubbles to rise to the master cylinder. Also turn the handlebars side to side while tapping, for the same reason of encouraging bubbles to rise.
Cover the gas tank and engine with a plastic garbage bag to protect the paint.
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- Sandy
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- Fly High,Tony
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1977 KZ1000 A-1
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- bountyhunter
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Rear brakes bleed easily in under 2 minutes.
It is the front brakes that cause all the trouble.
I have a Mityvac brake bleeder (under $30) which Sucks from the brake bleeder. I rate it's usefulness at a 7 (out of 10) It takes about 10 minutes and 1 can of brake fluid.
My favorite tool is a small pump oiling can - the kind with a squeeze handle. Under $3 at the hardware store. I connect it to the bleeder nipple with a hose and pump back up to the master cylinder. I rate it at a 8.5 out of 10.
It takes about 6 minutes and a 1/2 can of fluid.
Useful tricks:
If bleeding without above tools put a hose on bleeder running to a jar on ground so that the end of hose is in brake fluid. That keeps you from sucking air back in when you use the pump and bleed method.
Buy the good brake bleeder nipples with a rubber seal around the threads. eBay. That keeps you from sucking air back in when you use the pump and bleed method.
If using one of my favored bleeding tools put a hose clamp around the handlebar and brake lever. With the master cylinder cover removed slowly tighten the clamp until you see a few very small bubbles rise in the reservoir. You will only be pulling on the lever a small fraction of an inch (maybe 1/4" ) The purpose of this is to put the port of the m/cyl pushrod directly over the return port in the m/cyl. This allows more air to escape from the system.
Several times during the bleeding process flex and tap the front brake lines to encourage bubbles to rise to the master cylinder. Also turn the handlebars side to side while tapping, for the same reason of encouraging bubbles to rise.
Cover the gas tank and engine with a plastic garbage bag to protect the paint.
If you don't have fancy tools, you can avoid sucking air in by getting an assistant who will snug off the bleed fitting AS FLUID IS STILL COMING OUT FROM YOU PUMPING THE HANDLE.
Just keep topping off the reservoir and NEVER LET THE LEVEL GET LOW because then you will pump air back into the line and you are screwed again.
IMPORTANT: cover the open reservoir with a rag or something to keep it from spitting fluid as you pump.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- IowaKZ
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So, since I always listen to my wife (:laugh: ) I took the splitter off and tipped it around and tapped on it a little, sure enough, more air bubbles.
then I decided to remove the calipers and shake them up a little bit, more air.
then I decided to go back to the splitter again.
this back and forth went for quite a while and I could start to see some progress.
I kept working at it and taking brakes because my wife needed some work done too.
After supper I worked at it some more and then I could see that the pads were in contact with the rotors, so I lifted the front on on my stand, spun the front tire, and pulled the brake and it stopped.
I finished putting it back together and rode it up and down my street a little. It stops the bike, but there is still some air somewhere because it was pretty mushy. I'll have to keep working on it but I think I am on the right track.
the only other question I have is this:
when I was putting the piston back into the master cylinder, I think I might have nicked up the 2nd gasket going in. Would this draw air into the system? I thought it might, but then I told myself that this this was true, then fluid should come out too, right?
I'm scared if this is the case because there is probably no changing this gasket, meaning I would have to buy a new one.
1980 G1 Classic
Bettendorf, Iowa
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- BSKZ650
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I would just about have a ass whipping than have to bleed the front brakes.
77 kz650, owned for over 25 years
77 ltd1000, current rider
76 kz900, just waiting
73 z1,, gonna restore this one
piglet, leggero harley davidson
SR, Ride captian, S.E.Texas Patriot Guard Riders.. AKA KawaBob
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- bemoore
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77 KZ650C1 w/Kerker 4-1
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- IowaKZ
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you went through all the PIA stuff to bleed the brakes,, I think you may stll have air in the master cyl,
I would just about have a ass whipping than have to bleed the front brakes.
After going through this effort, I am in agreement with you.
what really ticks me off is that I painted my calipers and they looked really good. However, with all the bleeding and etc. I messed up the new paint.
Plus the frustration of not seeing any progress for a long time. I am really close now, but still a ways to go.
Thanks all for the kind words and encouragement. I'm sure I'll get there. I just have to be more patient.:S
1980 G1 Classic
Bettendorf, Iowa
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- BSKZ650
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Some will dissagree, but I have seen brakes with it in there for years and the fluid is just as clean as it was when new
77 kz650, owned for over 25 years
77 ltd1000, current rider
76 kz900, just waiting
73 z1,, gonna restore this one
piglet, leggero harley davidson
SR, Ride captian, S.E.Texas Patriot Guard Riders.. AKA KawaBob
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