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fork oil change 81 KZ 650 SR
- HansNOR
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the forks are reassembled and put on the bike after i change the fork gaskets . wheel is back on - all is good ...
except there is no oil in the forks .. for some reason i thought i could fill oil thru the top once i unscrewed the airvalve cap thing - that hole is tiny - and i suspect also that it is only air supposed to be in there ?
do i really have to remove the forks from the bike to change the oil ? ?
i've tried studying the clymer manual - but i'm having a hard time figuring any other way than total disassembly (which would suck if thats the case )
anyone ... `?
(tried searching the forums but most forks are 70ies without the air thingie )
o 198x Kawasaki GPZ 750 (year will be updated)
x 1981 Kawasaki KZ 650 SR
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- HansNOR
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o 198x Kawasaki GPZ 750 (year will be updated)
x 1981 Kawasaki KZ 650 SR
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- HansNOR
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i'll loosen the upper and lower fork clamps - then push the forks up .. fasten the clamps . then unscrew the fork cap with the airvalve on it ...
thats what i figure is what one is supposed to do ...
o 198x Kawasaki GPZ 750 (year will be updated)
x 1981 Kawasaki KZ 650 SR
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- JMKZHI
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- HansNOR
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o 198x Kawasaki GPZ 750 (year will be updated)
x 1981 Kawasaki KZ 650 SR
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- HansNOR
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now the forks are again shiny and fitted on the bike . . but now one last challenge remains .. filling air .. manual says 8 - 13 psi in the forks .. how do i fill that tiny space with so little air that the pressure dont skyrocket ? the gas station pumps can't handle such low pressure with their new systems fitted ...
what do you guys use `? i've seen footpumps but they aren't very accurate .. and i'm afraid of blowing the gasket ..
feel free to comment
o 198x Kawasaki GPZ 750 (year will be updated)
x 1981 Kawasaki KZ 650 SR
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- Link14
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My 750 is really touchy with the air pressure. The best way I've found is a footpump and digital pressure gauge. I like them around 10 psi, so I'll feel them to around 13 or so on the footpump gauge, then check it several times which drops the pressure down to 10 psi.
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- HansNOR
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it didnt take me more than half an hour to change oil on both sides - but it would be nice in the future do do it without all the hassle of torquing everything in place
o 198x Kawasaki GPZ 750 (year will be updated)
x 1981 Kawasaki KZ 650 SR
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- Patton
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Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Link14
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Like Patton suggested, loosening the top clamp helps make sure the topcap threads aren't bound by the fork tube.
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- HansNOR
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patton - yes - i would imagine it would have to, and thats what i've been doing
i might do what you say link - and mount it just above the top clamp next time. that would def. make it easier
As you can all tell i'm new at the bike thing - and i do appreciate all feedback i'm getting
- last question - is it hard to get the cap to thread correctly when fitting it ? with the spring causing tension i mean ?
o 198x Kawasaki GPZ 750 (year will be updated)
x 1981 Kawasaki KZ 650 SR
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- Patton
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i loosened both the top and lower clamp...
is it hard to get the cap to thread correctly when fitting it ? with the spring causing tension i mean ?
It is sinfully easy to strip the ultra-fine soft male cap threads by getting it cross-threaded when attempting to begin screwing it into the steel female threaded tube top.
Probably better methods, but I use a large socket to press the cap down against the spring to initial contact with the tube, then very carefully -- aligning by sight and feel -- get the cap started into the tube with the threads properly aligned. Sometimes it takes several attempts to get it started just right. And when it starts right, it's usually easy to tell.
And BTW, when loosening the top cap, am thinking the top fork tube clamp should be loosened, but the lower fork tube clamp should remain tight to prevent the tube from turning as the cap is being turned.
As to pressurizing the air-assisted forks, on dirt bikes I use a bicycle tire hand pump (instead of a foot pump), if that makes any difference. The main idea being not to blow the seals with air compressor psi.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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