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lowering the front end. GPZ
- ponyjr
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thanks,
Derek
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- ponyjr
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- pstrbrc
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- '81 GPz 1100 project
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OK, that's the legal mumbojummbo. As Momma uster say, if you break both legs don't come cryin' to me.
Shorten the springs. Springs are easy to shorten, and easier to shorten wrong. When you cut a spring you have to keep it from overheating and losing its temper. Use a cutoff tool and a friend with a spray bottle. As you cut have said friend spraying the spring at the point of contact. Heavy mist is best. However, don't get everything hot and then cool it down. Maintain a constant spray. This will make for the least amount of temper change.
Cut a half a coil off of both springs. Reassemble. See if you like it. If you want more, do a quarter coil at a time. If you cut too much, you can shim with washers, but it's better to cut a little until you're where you want to be, then find out you've whacked off too much and have to go shopping for new springs. Furthermore, always cut off the same amount on each spring. This seems obvious to me, but I'm gonna say it just to make sure.
Cutting the coils rather than sliding the tubes up the triple clamps does two things. It stiffens the spring rates as you shorten them, and it maintains the compression bump stop at the same place relative to the chassis. So you don't end up with the wheel binding with the front of the engine under full braking.
\'81 GPz 1100 project
Elkhart, Kansas USA
\"Man does not control his own fate. The women in his life do that for him.\" Groucho Marx
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- roy-b-boy-b
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1979 LTD Street Fighter.1977 KZ1000
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- guitargeek
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1980 KZ750-H1 (slightly altered)
1987 KZ1000-P6 "Ponch"
1979 GS1000 "Dadzuki"
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- gpzrox
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Modern bikes, however, (I believe, looking at the bikes that have been done) have shorter forks and give the stance. I personally like Lorcans stance. Plus you get an added benefit of not only looking cooler, but making the bike more rideable instead of less.
Takes more time, and alot more money, but dollar for dollar to me it is going to be the best way to take my GPZ into the next 10 years.
84 GPZ750. Modded with stock Kawasaki parts: ZR-7 shock, ZX-6 coils, GPZ1100 throttle, EN454 brake, GPZ900 fuse box, etc. and non stock: Ken Sears mirrors, K&N filter, Pirelli Sport Demons.
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- galaxian
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as a side note modern forks are not necessarily smaller infact my 96 zx7r forks are the same height as my kz1000 forks (ok give or take a 1/2 inch:P ). But the bike is much lower since i am running a 17" front versus a 19" front.
Just my .00000000000001 cents worth of info.
1977 KZ1000A1, 1979 KZ650 C3
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- guitargeek
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Look at the pictures again, I've lowered my front end 2.5" and have had no problems with headshake or excessive twitchiness. I've let go of the grips at 40 mph and it tracks straight and true. The bike loves to turn in after a moment's hesitation when I have to overcome the inertia of the 19" front wheel, so it's not as flickable as a modern sportbike, but handles WAY better than it did when it was stock.Yep, I agree with the clip ons. I personally think that lowering the front end with these forks could be not very fun.
That said, my bike didn't start out as a GPz, it was originally an LTD and still has the 16" rear wheel (I grafted on the front end from an '82 GPz750). Having an 18" rear wheel, you might not want to drop the front end as much as I have...
1980 KZ750-H1 (slightly altered)
1987 KZ1000-P6 "Ponch"
1979 GS1000 "Dadzuki"
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