Odd KZ650 Headlight

Is there a KZ650 headlight that doesn't use the rubber grommet and aluminum bushing setup? I am trying to locate one that doesn't require the bottom mount to keep the headlight steady.

Actually is there any KZ headlight that doesn't use the rubber bushing setup. I made a few changes to the bike so I am interested in eliminating the bottom support from my headlight as I do not have the clearance for it now.

Thanks,
KC

If you mount a headlight on a bike without some kind of rubber bushings for vibration isolation, it won't live long. The vibration will shake the guts apart.

KawiConvert wrote:

Is there a KZ650 headlight that doesn't use the rubber grommet and aluminum bushing setup? I am trying to locate one that doesn't require the bottom mount to keep the headlight steady.

Actually is there any KZ headlight that doesn't use the rubber bushing setup. I made a few changes to the bike so I am interested in eliminating the bottom support from my headlight as I do not have the clearance for it now.

Thanks,
KC

Would concur with bountyhunter about prospective issues with vibration.

And believe it would be okay (perhaps preferable) to eliminate the bottom support from the headlight

Don't know for sure that KZ650 headlight problems were sililar to those with the large fours, but suspect they were very much alike in dealing with vibration issues.

So here for consideration are some remarks by Dave Marsden relating to Kawaski's ongoing struggle regarding problems with headlight vibration.


Original 1973 Z1

A small black metal bracket was bolted to the bottom of the headlamp shell by a 8mm zinc plated bolt and fastened at the other end between the brake junction box and bottom yoke to add support and adjustment to the headlamp. This bracket was removed on later models because it was found to be contributing to bulb failure due to vibration.

The headlamp unit was then sandwiched between the two brackets on the front forks by a series of rubber mounts. The two chrome indicator stems pushed through these brackets and then through the headlamp shell and bolted the whole lot together. Two alloy earthing collars inside the shell acted as spacers while everything was tightened and secured by two 10mm nuts.

The headlamp mounting rubbers were also modified to a softer compound in an effort to reduce vibration. None of these modifications proved to be successful and it would be many years before the problem was solved

1974 Z1

Due to problems still persisting with headlamp bulb failure, uk model were fitted with a 20w resistor. This was wired into the lighting system, connecting between the two blue wires running from the handle bar switches.
The resistor was a green cigar shaped unit, bolted to a black metal bracket and sandwiched between one of the ignition coil mounts and the frame.

1975 Z1

Another attempt to reduce vibration was carried out by replacing the headlamp mounting rubbers with softer items. Because of this, the indicator earthing collars were also modified.

In February of 1975, a bulletin was sent to dealers to advise that yet another attempt had been made to reduce vibration to the headlamp area. New modified headlamp brackets had been produced and fitted to all bikes from frame numbers z1f-55500 onwards.

Dealers were also advised to remove the headlamp adjusting bracket, fastened to the bottom of the headlamp bowl. Kawasaki had already begun to leave this bracket off production bikes, at the same time that the new headlamp brackets were fitted.

The new chrome headlamp brackets now had an extra inner plate on the inside section of the triangular piece. This plate sandwiched the previously modified mounting rubbers and allowed the headlamp assembly slightly more movement thus reducing vibration.

Because of these changes a new fork assembly was made available to include all the new parts. As usual the american model was the same with the exception of the orange reflectors

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Good Luck!

Ok, I was hoping for one that was different. Is there a replacement bulb type that isn't so effected by the vibration? My headlight bracket has some rubber mounts, but I don't think it would be enough unless I put better ones on the bottom.

Thanks for the info on their problems. I was wondering why they used such oversized buffers.

KawiConvert wrote:

Ok, I was hoping for one that was different. Is there a replacement bulb type that isn't so effected by the vibration? My headlight bracket has some rubber mounts, but I don't think it would be enough unless I put better ones on the bottom.

Thanks for the info on their problems. I was wondering why they used such oversized buffers.

Some bulbs and/or sealed beams are touted as being more vibration resistant, supposedly designed for motorcycle application.

Am thinking various different style accessory headlights remain available on the aftermarket, as do various types of ears for solid mount connection to the fork tubes, and other style mounting brackets. Don't know which if any of these may employ some form of rubber mounting to isolate vibration.

My Z1 and KZ900-B1 (LTD) have basically the same headlight shell with rubber mounting "dampers" (grommets) on each side of the shell. The Z1 shell is held by bolts through the dampers to ears on the fork tubes. The LTD shell is held by bolts through the dampers to ears on a bracket attached to the triple clamp. The Z1 bracket under the shell (designed to hold the light in position) is no longer there, and the LTD never had one in the first place.

The rubber damper mounting on sides of the headlight shell holds the headlight plenty tight enough to maintain its vertical setting and prevent it from jarring loose when hitting road bumps. And it's convenient and remains possible (even while riding) to "adjust" the vertical position by exerting enough pressure by hand to over-power the damper tension. Neither the damper mounting system nor absence of holding bracket under headlight shell has been an issue.

If replacement dampers (grommets) are needed, they may be available at Z1E.

Am thinking metal collars (spacers) go inside the dampers to keep them from being squeezed too close together. Where the dampers fail to hold tight enough, it might be feasible to slightly shorten the collars.

Good Luck!

KAWmother says: No isolate bulbs from vibration/resonation you soon learn Braille Driving Technique.

Nah, I'll just start walking after dark or carry a cane. Ok, mainly want to get rid of the bottom mount, but was hopeful for the massive pads as well. Hmmm, well, I think I can make something work. We'll have to see how long it works.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationMild to wild listings on ebay. :ohmy:

OK, on that one I would have to hope the vibrations kill it . I picked up a CX500 headlight as I will build the vibration absorption into the headlight ears and it will fit my altered headlight mount better than the kz one that no longer has a 2" washer to hide behind. I just got the CX about 10 min ago so we'll see how it looks when it shows up. I started my bike for the first time in 8 months last night and was worried it wasn't running right. Fired it up again tonight and let it warm up some more and then it started to behave. Now I need to finish this and the seat and some small parts and I should be donw. I need to ride before it gets to cold, it is getting down into the 30's at night and I only have a spring/fall/summer jacket.

For what it's worth...

I'm running the el-cheapo Emgo solid mount headlight ears, universal fit, available for less than $10 almost anywhere. I've got the H4 conversion halogen bulb in my headlight bucket (which happens to be from a Honda CB550 of some mid-70's vintage). With three seasons of over 2000 miles a season of riding I've never replaced the bulb.
My KZ had the halogen conversion in it when I got it, so I can't speak to the durability of the sealed beam style light with this set up, but the H4 bulb has given me absolutely no problem so far.

Take a look at the parts diagram for a '77 KZ650C1. It (and some other KZ650 models) uses fork covers or "ears" with grommets to hold the headlight shell. No bottom mount. You may be able to fit these to your bike and eliminate that wirey bracket. Ed

650ed wrote:

Take a look at the parts diagram for a '77 KZ650C1. It (and some other KZ650 models) uses fork covers or "ears" with grommets to hold the headlight shell. No bottom mount. You may be able to fit these to your bike and eliminate that wirey bracket. Ed

I made a new wirey bracket that uses the ears from the el cheapo clamp on ears and some 1/4" chromed steel wire/bar. It moved the headlight down and back to where I wanted it. Then I cut about 1/4" off the brake splitter mounts to suck it up tight against the lower triple so the headlight can clear it. Now to get it chromed/coated.

I like some of the fork tube ears, but I couldn't find a good clean set that put the headlight where I wanted it.