Anyone know how to get the front hub bearings out?

I use a drift and BFH

Seems like there is always one side of the spacer that will move sideways a bit to allow you to get a drift on the bearing.

wiredgeorge wrote:

Wheel bearings? Press?

I use a BFH and a BIG flat blade screw driver. You ain't gonna reuse the bearing and it is easier to catch the edge with a flat blade than a drift.

I'm thinking I will need a press to get the new ones back in. I'm also putting new bearings in the swigarm and I think the shop press at Harbor Frieght is only around $150 or so. Now I was looking at part #12 in the pic and was wondering how that comes out. Mine is flush on both sides of the hub with the bearings. Does the bearing remover grip onto that part and pull the sleeve and bearing out at the same time?

www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876

cheap and should work fine - see manual link for PDF with illustration

supercharged wrote:

www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876

cheap and should work fine - see manual link for PDF with illustration

I don't think that would work. Look at part #12. That sleeve looks like it's flush with both outside edges of the bearings. Maybe I missed something when I was looking at it. What I'm worried about is that little thing in the middle that looks like a race. I tried pushing on the sleeve and it didn't budge. Maybe I'll give it a tap and it'll slide out and then I can get to the bearings. Hmmm this should be interesting. :laugh:

donthekawguy wrote:

wiredgeorge wrote:

Wheel bearings? Press?

I use a BFH and a BIG flat blade screw driver. You ain't gonna reuse the bearing and it is easier to catch the edge with a flat blade than a drift.

I'm thinking I will need a press to get the new ones back in. I'm also putting new bearings in the swigarm and I think the shop press at Harbor Frieght is only around $150 or so. Now I was looking at part #12 in the pic and was wondering how that comes out. Mine is flush on both sides of the hub with the bearings. Does the bearing remover grip onto that part and pull the sleeve and bearing out at the same time?

As Sandy said... You don't need a press.

Put the new bearings in the freezer for a while,and heat the hub up,good and hot,just before you,drop the new ones in...and they almost DO just drop right in.

I just changed all my wheel and steering head bearings.
No press needed. BFH,flat head screwdriver,torch and a freezer was used.
Oh.. and a piece of 2x4.(steering races going in)
On getting the steering head races out I used a jack handle that had a bit of a curve at the end. Worked great!
Like the handles that come with the small floor jacks you can get a Walmart.

im lazy!after you pry the seals out toss the hub in the oven a few minutes pull it out and spray the bearing with wd40 while its still warm then beat it with your neighbors big flat screwdriver!:laugh: to reinstall toss bearings in the freezer for 30 minutes warm up the hub in the oven and tap em home with a big socket same size as bearing race/shell !

You don't need a press to put them in either. Just use two sockets and a piece of ready rod. Take the bearing out of the freezer and place it where it goeas and put the ready rod through the center of the hub and put a socket on each side and then a washer and nut. Slowly tighten the two nuts together. If there is any excessive resistance, take another socket and place it over the nut that is on the bearing side and give it a tap with a hammer.

For the curious.There is a "bearing removal Tool" In essence, a set of blind/split plugs which are interferance fits to the internal dia's of common bearing inner races. these are tappped into the inside races of(intact bearings), from the outside of their respective homes, then a tapered drift is inserted into the split, expanding the plug, and then used to drive the bearing (complete) out. exposing the snapring to inner bearing (removal) and then likewise removing inner & outer bearings. the key, since all bearings need be replaced anyway, is that the hub, the inner spacer, and reletive seats be undamaged. ball and to an extent, tapered bearings need to be centered in relation to their respective races. consider, that when you tighten an axle/w spacers against the inner race of wheel bearings without an internal spacer or one which has been deformed/shortened. any resistance w/out brakes /chain is too much. luck g

Hey, goog timing on this topic. I have my wheel off for a new tire and I've about "while I have the wheel off"'d thing thing to death. Couldn't figure out the bearing removal and once agin you guys have come to my rescue.

So, while the wheel is off, tire, tube, check the spokes, clean the wheel, replace the bearings, replace the pads....anything else I should do while I'm in here?

Thanks

Frank

might as well change your fork oil and check steering head bearings and tighten everything else up on the bike.

Sure