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New bike's back brake stays engaged.
- Qdude
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- It is all good.
Master cylinder or Slave?
77 KZ 650 C1.
77 KZ 650 C1.
Crashed-Repaired, Pods, Kerker pipe, re-wired core bundle, lamp upgraded, homemade rectifier, solid state regulator , Dyna-s ignition, repainted, slightly modified, year-round commuter
Honda Metro 85 mpg Scooter. Dont laugh I will throw it at you
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- Old Man Rock
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i.e.... The line jumps a little when pedal pressed hard or you can feel the pressure while holding the line... You can witness the pads squeezing but not retracting etc...
If above holds true, then may be time for a caliper re-build...
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- donthekawguy
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Rathdrum Idaho
1971 Kawasaki g3ss
1972 Yamaha R5 350
1965 Suzuki Hillbilly
1964 Yamaha 125
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- bluej58
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- The chrome don't get you home
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Make sure the lock nut has not come loose and the screw has vibrated down and is holding the brake pedal from returning up all the way.
This little thing cost me a lot of time and money back in the 70's at the local repair shop and is one of the reasons I try to do all my own work now.
Good luck, JD
78 KZ1000 A2A
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- KYKZ1100
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1981 KZ1100A1 Shaft
2007 BMW R1200R
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- MFolks
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A wooden toothpick works well to open up the holes.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- Patton
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- KZr Legend
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See part number 13 on image below.
A too small gap may soon disappear while riding and allow the brake to drag, which may increase heat and eventually lock up the brake.
Good Luck!
[Click on image to enhance view.]
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- newOld_kz1000
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- FlimFlamFlibbityFlee !! BoonFryedShickaMuhZee !!
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Would use rear brake pushrod adjuster mechanism to add additional gap between end of the pushrod and master cylinder piston.
See part number 13 on image below.
A too small gap may soon disappear while riding and allow the brake to drag, which may increase heat and eventually lock up the brake.
Good Luck!
[Click on image to enhance view.]
I have the exact same problem, exact same rear brake assembly.
Part #9 in the diagram, the brake piston, is not descending. The brake push rod, part #13, is retracting just fine. I had to pull the whole assembly off the bike to discover this.
Why will the piston stick in the "engaged" position like that even after the pressure from the brake lever/pushrod is removed?
To qdude, if you have the same problem, it is hard to know for sure with all parts still on the bike because you can't really see that the part #9 is sticking when everything's still attached.
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- Patton
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The larger hole is for supplying fluid into the bore, which fluid may be compressed by application of the hand lever.
The much smaller pinpoint size hole is the relief port, whereby pressure is relieved from the line and returned to the reservoir when the hand lever is released.
The small hole sometimes gets clogged, whereby fluid in the lines remains compressed regardless of hand lever position, in which event the brake remains applied.
Would assure the small hole is clean and clear.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- gane
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[img][/img] 1977 KZ1000A1
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