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'78 KZ650 c2 Fork Seal overhaul question
- Nerbula
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I am very confident I can do the repairs myself with some internet investigation and knowledge from my "data" banks ( manuals on cd that came with the bike )
I really want to know If I will need any special tools to do the job, I believe I have read that a "Seal Puller" is needed but is that really something I should spend money on for a one time deal ?
I dont have a lot of money, I have tools at hand and most importantly I would like to know of peoples first hand experience changing the front fork seals, I read that they are under a great deal of tension via the springs, and that they fly out.
Please tell me what comes to your mind. I would appreciate it. once again its a 1978 Kawasaki kz650 c2 model.
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- RonKZ650
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I guess a quick step by step would be:
1. Loosen top caps, but don't remove them.
2. Remove forks
3. Remove drain philips screws and drain oil, then reinstall screws
4. Use an impact driver to remove bottom allen bolts.
5. Remove top cap, remove spacers, spring ect.
6. Remove dust covers.
7. Remove retaining ring and washer from above seal.
8. Pry out seal with a seal tool.
9. Clean area and tap in new seal with a seal driver or appropriate size socket ect.
10. Reinstall washer and clip.
11. Slide the tubes together.
12. Install bottom allen bolt with an impact driver.
13. Install springs and spacers.
14. Add oil.
15. Reinstall dust covers
16. Compress spring as you attempt to thread on the top cap. This can be a little trying.
17. Reinstall on motorcycle and fully tighten top cap.
321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- Nerbula
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BECAUSE knowledge is power
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- N0NB
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- Blue handles better
I made my own version out of a piece of scrap shaft from the farm by grinding one end to a taper with four flat sides and welded a nut to the other end. I stuck the tapered end down into the fork tube so it engaged the damper rod, turned the business upside down and gave it all a firm tap on the floor. With a box end wrench on the nut I was able to easily remove the bottom bolt. I used the same procedure on installation to torque the bottom bolt.
When using the seal puller, use a small piece of wood under it or you'll damage the top of the fork tube as you're trying to pry the seal out. That's a good idea anyway as the seal puller is typically a thin piece of steel that will damage a milled edge with the force applied to remove a seal.
Look at my pages as I documented rebuilding my SR fork seals several years ago . They were a bit different as they have a twelve point head at the top of the damper rod that the right sized bolt head fits into.
Nate
Nates vintage bike axiom: Riding is the reward for time spent wrenching.
Murphys corollary: Wrenching is the result of time spent riding.
1979 KZ650 (Complete!)
1979 KZ650 SR (Sold!)
1979 KL250 (For sale)
1994 Bayou 400 (four wheel peel )
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- JMKZHI
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Some folks have had luck using a hardwood dowel (old rake handle) carved into the shape of a wedge, then jamming it in. To drain the forks you could remove the top caps & dump it out. After draining them, for a less messy job pour in some solvent, invert, then dump it. Here's a photo of a 650 damper rod (70's model)... I can't seem to find the how-to w other pics...
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- JMKZHI
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- z650c3
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Cheers
c3
1979 z650 c3 first registered in 1981
2006 Harley Davidson VRSCR
Northern Ireland
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- 650ed
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Also, here's a link to another homemade fork cylinder tool (the tool worked for me).
tool
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- H1Vindicator
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- Jeff.Saunders
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...Some folks have had luck using a hardwood dowel (old rake handle) carved into the shape of a wedge, then jamming it in...
This works fairly well. If the internals were the same on all of KZ's it wouldn't be so bad, but you need 4-5 different tools if you are working on all the KZ's.
An air impact helps greatly with the allen bolt. I've struggled with some forks doing it by hand.
If you do buy a seal remover, I use a hard plastic strip to lever against to avoid damaging the aluminum of the fork lower with the puller. Even something like a paint stir stick works.
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- Jeff.Saunders
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Of course if you have an impact driver you don't need a holder tool..
Most times this is true... but not always. I've had a couple that the air impact didn't undo - just spun them around.
RonKZ650 wrote:
One last bit of advice, they didn't use loctite of any kind on the bolts and by all means follow suit and don't add any.
Ron, on my Z1's I will ALWAYS use loctite. I can't speak for all models, but you don't ever want those bolts to come loose.
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