Straight frame

then we could just send our frames to you,buddy. :ohmy:



leon

How far is your bike disassembled at the moment? A better question may be how far are you willing to strip the bike down to check the frame. Everyone has given good suggestions to check various aspects of alignment, but I think to really check it out you may need to remove both wheels and the engine. I suppose it just depends on how much you really want to check out

Damn Leon, that's not a frame jig, its a frame room! :ohmy:

531blackbanshee wrote:

mark,here is what you need .

leon

Oh Hell. Now that u mention it. i think i have 1 of those in a drawer somewhere. lol.:laugh:
Nice, looks like something made in Japan , bud.

porchev914 wrote:

How far is your bike disassembled at the moment? A better question may be how far are you willing to strip the bike down to check the frame. I suppose it just depends on how much you really want to check out

I am just in the research mode right now. I have to paint my frame anyways. i was hoping to do it this winter, but that didn’t pan out. i will plan on a complete tare down next winter, and if i can do some checks and tweaks while its apart, that would be great. Depending on how difficult this would be. U make it look , WAAAY too easy .:laugh:
So how do i check the neck in reference to the pivot? i like the idea that Gane had. using cones on a rod to center the rods. hell i may be able to put my old stem in and put a rod through it?
So i can picture it with these 2 rod sticking through it. now how do i correlate them together?
I wouldn’t have to reaf on these, just use them for measuring, and then put something heavier in there to pry while cutting and heating. Damb , u make it sound easy.lol
How can i get a laser to work for this?Kawickrice ?

650ed wrote:

Assuming that you don't find a serious frame problem, and since the wheels are parallel, could you align them by using or rearranging spacers on the rear axle to shift the rear wheel left or right as needed? Ed

I could align the wheels Ed, but it will put my rear wheel into the chain, requireing a larger offset sporcket up front. it is already out more than i would like.

i have already ran string lines from the ceiling(plumb lines), parallel to the 2 wheels to verify that they are both true with each other. it seems like the neck may be mounted true but to 1 side of center. i have heard that this was a common KZ trait. if this is the case , it must be off quite a bit.
It is not the end of the world if i dont fix this, but it would be cool , if i could.
i do have a high speed weave(at speed,while at a lean), but i dont think it is related to this.I will try dif tire this year to see if that helps. the Pilot Powers front tire wore in a cup pattern, so it will be interesting to see if new tires solve this.
Anyone else running Pilot Powers, notice a weave??

You could make it easier on yourself by leaving your triples and fork tubes in place. Your fork tubes are in the same longitudinal plane as your stem (hopefully!) With the tubes straight ahead and perpendicular to the stearing head, any centerline measurement between the fork tubes will be the alignment of the head. This also assumes your forks aren't bent :blink:
Kawickrices suggestion of a 2 way self leveling line laser will go a long way toward simplifying your alignment check. With a couple of quality levels, a plumb Bob, a 2 way self leveling line laser, a straight edge or way to make a axle to axle reference line and
Jackstands to support things, you should be able to thouroghly check your frame with a minor tool investment. Now if you discover you have to fix something? Hole other ball game boss :silly:

mark1122 wrote:

i have already ran string lines from the ceiling(plumb lines), parallel to the 2 wheels to verify that they are both true with each other. it seems like the neck may be mounted true but to 1 side of center. i have heard that this was a common KZ trait. if this is the case , it must be off quite a bit.
It is not the end of the world if i dont fix this, but it would be cool , if i could.
i do have a high speed weave(at speed,while at a lean), but i dont think it is related to this.I will try dif tire this year to see if that helps. the Pilot Powers front tire wore in a cup pattern, so it will be interesting to see if new tires solve this.
Anyone else running Pilot Powers, notice a weave??

Are you running regular Pilot Powers or 2CT's. I had the 2CT's on my zx-10r last year and it cupped. Really screwed with my handling. Replaced the front with a BT-016 and all is well. I think that I would replace that tire before riding season, so that you can enjoy your summer. With the cupped tire, I was constantly adjusting my line in a corner.

testarossa wrote:

mark1122 wrote:

i do have a high speed weave(at speed,while at a lean), but i dont think it is related to this.I will try dif tire this year to see if that helps. the Pilot Powers front tire wore in a cup pattern, so it will be interesting to see if new tires solve this.
Anyone else running Pilot Powers, notice a weave??

Are you running regular Pilot Powers or 2CT's. I had the 2CT's on my zx-10r last year and it cupped. Really screwed with my handling. Replaced the front with a BT-016 and all is well. I think that I would replace that tire before riding season, so that you can enjoy your summer. With the cupped tire, I was constantly adjusting my line in a corner.

just the plain Powers.i put a couple braces on the frame. i will change the back tire to a sport tour(i want to try a stiffer tire). if the weave is still there with the new bracing, then i will change the front tire, to see how it changes the weave.
Just a bit of an experiment.

porchev914 wrote:

You could make it easier on yourself by leaving your triples and fork tubes in place. Your fork tubes are in the same longitudinal plane as your stem (hopefully!) With the tubes straight ahead and perpendicular to the stearing head, any centerline measurement between the fork tubes will be the alignment of the head. This also assumes your forks aren't bent :blink:
Kawickrices suggestion of a 2 way self leveling line laser will go a long way toward simplifying your alignment check. With a couple of quality levels, a plumb Bob, a 2 way self leveling line laser, a straight edge or way to make a axle to axle reference line and
Jackstands to support things, you should be able to thoroughly check your frame with a minor tool investment. Now if you discover you have to fix something? Hole other ball game boss :silly:

I think your right. i should be able to figure it out if i get enough string , lasers, and levels. lol.

How about this.
i put a straight rod through the pivot, sticking out equal on both sides.i drop a plumb line down to each end. now i pick a point along each plumb line, and measure to the center of the neck. it should be an equal distance from each line. I dont think it will be though. lol.
sounds simple enough.:woohoo:

mark1122 wrote:

PLUMMEN wrote:

start with a level across the bottem 2 backbone tubes where coils mount and another across top of steering head with trees and front end removed is the area id be looking at.

How do u referance the 3 levels to each other? Not sure what this is going to tell me?:side:

If youve got a bare frame id sit the frame up on some crates to where the level on the bottem backbone tubes are level,then id lay another torpedo level across top of steering head to see if it is reading the same.
If the 2 levels dont read the same youve got something out of wack.not a really scientific approach,but it gives you a basic go or no go for your base line

I see what your saying.
Thats worth a try. Thanks.