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Air in front brakes 75 Z1-B
- ed spangler
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- Tennessee Z
I have a 75 Z1-B, We have rebuilt the master cylinder,rebuilt front caliper with new piston & Bleeder screw, new brake hoses, new front brake switch, all new copper washers thruought, new brake hoses, new disc pads, new brake lever, new brake lever pivot bolt, have had the nbrake "splitter" off, carefully cleaned it too etc. Have bled front brakes until fingers are sore, using auto terms have "partial firm pedal", have tried using pump,hold and loosen caliper bleeder screw many,many times still only partial "Pedal",lever stops maybe 1 1/2" from handlebar
if I pump brake lever fast several times it has more
"Pedal" , then when released , seems to revert to partial pedal, using DOT 3 fluid as required, think if I just ride it some to allow new disc pads to seat in it will firm up and amount of brake lever will increase? Any creative ideas on getting air out of system? Or maybe its not Air?
Thanks
Have 1975 Kawasaki Z1-B & 2003 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic
Had Hondas, Harleys and many ,many Z Series Kaws both Std. & LTD's
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- Jeff.Saunders
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If that hole isn't clear, you will not be able to effectively bleed the brakes. You will need a very fine spike - or a single wire from a wire brush to push thou the hole to clear it.
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- Link14
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Good luck.
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- MFolks
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1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- ed spangler
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- Tennessee Z
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We had the master cylinder apart in the parts washer, then bead blasted it and rewashed it, then lastly we used an air hose to blow out the 2 small holes in bottom of master cylinder and used the air hose on the main opening., hopefully we can bleed it once more then we will have more lever. My cousin had tried the wire tie the lever trick last night and interestingly...it did seem to help, not sure what the physics are for that , but if it works i'll take it.
I greatly appreciate all the help I get from you and Chris also. When I get the beginning and finished photos sdaved on a cd., I hope to post them on KZR so folks can see what an absolute basket case it was to begin with and how well its turned out.
We hope to have it finished in about another month.
Regards
ED Spangler
Have 1975 Kawasaki Z1-B & 2003 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic
Had Hondas, Harleys and many ,many Z Series Kaws both Std. & LTD's
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- Jeff.Saunders
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- KZQ
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- Walking Behind the Corn May Not Be All That!
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I had lots of of problems with my '76 kz900 which has dual front disks. I'd alway thought speedbleeders were the answer but they didn't help the air in the lines with the 900. I tried the technique that Plummen suggested and that helped some, but mainly I had to be patient. Every day for a week I'd go out and tap on the caliper and splitter several times with a rubber mallet, holding the bike at different angles. Eventually the brakes became firmer and firmer.
Good luck.
I had the same experience. I added a second disk and stayed with the 1/2" cylinder.
Bleeding that system seemed impossible. But after many tries and lots of patience I think the last few bubbles worked their way out and the lever started to work well from the first grip.
Wish I'd been in charge but wasn't.
I'm not arguing.
Bill
www.KZ1300.com
Riders:
1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100
Projects:
1985 ZN1300
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- ed spangler
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I followed your advice, then slowly pumped the brake lever with the reservoir lid off, I can clearly see bubbles whenever I pull the brake lever.
So...will try bleeding again and see if lever feel improves.
Hope you, your family, Chris and the gang had a Happy 4th!!
Now I am on to the Gear selector shaft / "Mission Cover" oil Leak, have ordered seals and gasket .If you have any tips for me on what to watch out for when removing the "Mission Cover" and or replacing it would love to hear them, have a thread on that going on the forum engine section.
Thanks Again!!
Regards
ED
Have 1975 Kawasaki Z1-B & 2003 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic
Had Hondas, Harleys and many ,many Z Series Kaws both Std. & LTD's
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- trianglelaguna
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- New and improved - extra strength
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the only thing i might ,add or reapet if already said is...
i take long ( 16-18") sections of clear tubing and stick em on the clipers venting/bleeder nipples and run em straight up to the headlight and use somthing to hold em up like that...wire-zip ties ect....then when i'm bleeding i keep tapping and let the fluid stay feeding vertical into the catch tubes (vertical clear add ons) while cracking and pumping and releasing the bleeders..pumping-repeating ect.....eventually with that much standing fluid and wiggleing the lines -tapping the splitter and master and calipers...eventually i can get more bubbles up the exit vent tubes...that last bubble is the ticket....good luck
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
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- unkalee
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- Old Man Rock
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Started with the Napa version (cheap) and worked well but started falling apart... What do you expect for $7....
Have since moved onto the Stockton unit @ Cycle Gear....
Built stringer and have a tighter seal on the caliper nipples (clamp vs. spring)....
Go through the normal bleeding procedures... when you think you have it, open the nipple, pull the brake in/down, velcro strap it in position and tap the caliper and line up to the master reservoirs to get rid of all air bubbles... Lock the nipple down & release the brake. Works every time...
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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