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KZ750 H2 1981 FRONT WHEEL TIGHTENING PROBLEM
- angel_uk
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please can you advise.
having now replaced the tires to bridestones. we tighten the wheel axle nut, following by the clamp nut. we don't have a torque wrench. the wheel is too stiff. you can loosen it off, but you can't have the wheel too tight and definately not loose.
is there some harry potters magic to correctly tightening a front wheel guys?
guess who has never done this before. i'm a student and can't afford big $... taking it to my local bike shop.
i want to learn to do it correctly. not rely on other well paid mechanics!.. our local shop charges $40 per hour plus VAT!
any advice greatly appreciated!. i will always think of all of you, when i service my bike!.. supervised of course by my dad!..
best wishes to all of you!
angie
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- angel_uk
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many thanks for your message. i've slotted the speedo in place. in between the two tangs.
cheers buddy
hog
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- angel_uk
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does anyone have a photo please of how the speedo gear (with tangs) fits into the stops? are these located on the base of the forks please?
i've had a good look and can't see where the tangs engage into the stops etc? i've a strange feeling that my forks are not kz750 h2 ones?
many thanks for helping us.
regards
angel
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- Joe Fabulous
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If it's the later type with one nut and a pinch bolt on one fork leg then make sure the speedo drive is square on the wheel and is located on the peg on the fork leg.
2004 Harley Davidson Softail
1981 Z1000 Chop
1982 KZ1100 A2
XS 650 Plunger Chop (in bits)
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- 650ed
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If your axle has a big nut at either side and the wheel is held in by a clamp at each fork bottom with 2 8mm nuts there is no need to touch either of the big axle nuts. If you have tightened them up you are simply tightening the taper wheel bearings, hence the wheel going stiff. Put the wheel in the forks loosly (not flopping about) and loosen the big axle nuts slightly and the wheel should free off. Taper bearings should be adjusted by just taking up the slack in the bearing by tightening the nuts and then back the nut off 1/4 of a turn, it's all by feel though really.
If it's the later type with one nut and a pinch bolt on one fork leg then make sure the speedo drive is square on the wheel and is located on the peg on the fork leg.
Joe, what the hell are you talking about??? Tapered wheel bearings?? Loosening the axle nuts??? This is a Kawasaki not a Ford (or hardley). Buy a manual dude before giving advice that might kill somebody. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Motor Head
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You do have your Service Manual to consult on this, correct? I think in 1 of your threads you said you have one.
I think you will find Most of the guys here will try to give correct advise for you to follow.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- Joe Fabulous
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2004 Harley Davidson Softail
1981 Z1000 Chop
1982 KZ1100 A2
XS 650 Plunger Chop (in bits)
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- 650ed
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From KZ650 Kawasaki Motorcycle Shop Manual Part #99931-539-01:
"Position the front wheel in its place between the front fork tubes, and slowly lower the front fork tube bottom ends onto the front axle.
Mount the front axle clamps, and tighten the nuts loosely (these are the clamp nuts, NOT the axle nuts). The arrow at the bottom of the clamp must point toward the front (Fig. G3).
Turn the speedometer gear housing so that it points to the two o’clock position. Be sure that the small projection on the gear housing does not catch on the lower part of the left tube.
Tighten the axle nuts with 7 - 9 kg-m (51 - 65 ft lbs) torque, and position the speedometer housing by turning it counterclockwise until it stops.
Tighten first the front axle clamp nut and then the rear nut with 1.6 - 2.2 kg-m (11.5 - 16 ft lbs) of torque. There will be a gap at the rear of the clamp after tightening.
WARNING - If the clamps are installed incorrectly or improperly tightened, the clamps or the studs could fail, resulting in loss of control."
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- angel_uk
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'guess whos birthday it's today! MINE... Angel is 47 today!.. still looking gorgeous! p-)
many thanks for your info here!
my bike is a kz750 ltd h2 1981. i cant find the tangs on my folks guys! does anyone have a photo of the speedometer gear and how the tangs fit into somewhere.
i've one front axle and only one clamp.
many thanks and birthday cake is offered with a coffee to all of you!
kind regards
angel ((( hugs )))
:laugh:
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- JMKZHI
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As for the tangs, I'd guess the stock forks only have one. My 81 650-CSR has one, as does the left fork from an 82 750-H3 (the bikes are very similar to yours). The little nub kinda acts like a positioning stop for the speedo drive.
Installing the front wheel should be fairly straight forward.
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- angel_uk
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many thanks for your reply!
i don't have a full OEM manual, some pages are missing.
this is one of the them.
i was hoping that one of the kzr's might take a photo of the speedometer insitue wink¬.
many thanks
angel
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