How "Snug" Do you get the Steering Stem Lock Nut?

Yeah that service manual doesn't tell you crap on how to do anything really!:blink:

Usually theres the top bearing, then the PRE LOAD NUT. With the bike off the ground (at least the front wheel) I snug the preload nut so the handlebars dont flop to either side. I actually like mine a little stif and the forks should hold their position no matter where I put them. After you have the preload set, then the top clamp is installed, then the top clamp bolt/nut is installed and tightened down. There should be a torque for that top bolt, if not, just make it tight. THEN, you can tighten the top clamp fork tube pinch bolts.

The top clamp puts pressure on the preload nut locking it in place. If you tighten the fork pinch bolts first, you may not have enough pressure locking the preload nut, enabling it to loosen up.

every bike I worked on was the same, only difference was the top locking hardware being a nut or bolt (like my Z1B).

Kidkawie wrote: Usually theres the top bearing, then the PRE LOAD NUT. With the bike off the ground (at least the front wheel) I snug the preload nut so the handlebars dont flop to either side. I actually like mine a little stif and the forks should hold their position no matter where I put them. After you have the preload set, then the top clamp is installed, then the top clamp bolt/nut is installed and tightened down. There should be a torque for that top bolt, if not, just make it tight. THEN, you can tighten the top clamp fork tube pinch bolts.

The top clamp puts pressure on the preload nut locking it in place. If you tighten the fork pinch bolts first, you may not have enough pressure locking the preload nut, enabling it to loosen up.

every bike I worked on was the same, only difference was the top locking hardware being a nut or bolt (like my Z1B).

Exactly! The "preload nut" is what's been called the "lock nut" in this thread (as this is what the manual calls it) but I agree that "preload nut" is a much better description. The old KZ650 factory manual describes how to check the steering and adjust it; and warns about vibration and instability if the steering is adjusted too lose or tight. It gives instructions for adjusting the "preload nut" without using a torque wrench; but also gives the correct torque value so you can use a torque wrench of you have an adapter. It describes, as you pointed out, that the lower fork leg clamp bolts must be loosened to let the fork legs reseat themselves. I was really surprised to see how little the newer KZ1000 manual discussed steering. Considering that the 1980 KZ1000 and the 1977 KZ650 use the exact same part numbers for all the steering stem parts I cannot believe the installation procedure would be so much different. I would not reassemble the steering until I got a manual that accurately described the 1980 KZ1000 procedure. Ed

650ed wrote:

Kidkawie wrote: Usually theres the top bearing, then the PRE LOAD NUT. With the bike off the ground (at least the front wheel) I snug the preload nut so the handlebars dont flop to either side. I actually like mine a little stif and the forks should hold their position no matter where I put them. After you have the preload set, then the top clamp is installed, then the top clamp bolt/nut is installed and tightened down. There should be a torque for that top bolt, if not, just make it tight. THEN, you can tighten the top clamp fork tube pinch bolts.

The top clamp puts pressure on the preload nut locking it in place. If you tighten the fork pinch bolts first, you may not have enough pressure locking the preload nut, enabling it to loosen up.

every bike I worked on was the same, only difference was the top locking hardware being a nut or bolt (like my Z1B).

Exactly! The "preload nut" is what's been called the "lock nut" in this thread (as this is what the manual calls it) but I agree that "preload nut" is a much better description. The old KZ650 factory manual describes how to check the steering and adjust it; and warns about vibration and instability if the steering is adjusted too lose or tight. It gives instructions for adjusting the "preload nut" without using a torque wrench; but also gives the correct torque value so you can use a torque wrench of you have an adapter. It describes, as you pointed out, that the lower fork leg clamp bolts must be loosened to let the fork legs reseat themselves. I was really surprised to see how little the newer KZ1000 manual discussed steering. Considering that the 1980 KZ1000 and the 1977 KZ650 use the exact same part numbers for all the steering stem parts I cannot believe the installation procedure would be so much different. I would not reassemble the steering until I got a manual that accurately described the 1980 KZ1000 procedure. Ed

Sometimes these manuals get "lost in translation". So calling the preload nut a "lock nut" might have been just from that.

Just remember to tighten the forks LAST. Do the stem, top clamp, lock nut first, than the fork pinch bolts.

Kidkawie wrote: Usually theres the top bearing, then the PRE LOAD NUT. With the bike off the ground (at least the front wheel) I snug the preload nut so the handlebars dont flop to either side. I actually like mine a little stif and the forks should hold their position no matter where I put them. After you have the preload set, then the top clamp is installed, then the top clamp bolt/nut is installed and tightened down. There should be a torque for that top bolt, if not, just make it tight. THEN, you can tighten the top clamp fork tube pinch bolts.

The top clamp puts pressure on the preload nut locking it in place. If you tighten the fork pinch bolts first, you may not have enough pressure locking the preload nut, enabling it to loosen up.

every bike I worked on was the same, only difference was the top locking hardware being a nut or bolt (like my Z1B).

x2

Well it probably doesn't matter, but that KZ1000/ 1100 manual Does have detailed info on how to set up the bearing pre-load. It even states to do it a certain way for New bearings vs used. Step by step disassemble and re-assemble. The info is there, just have to get in the correct section.

I have tapered bearings and just snugged them down and assembled the front end.

I bought a Z1 triple tree at the swap meet so I can install my stamped 1972 stabilizer, so I will be tearing mine down and see if the bearings are still snug. Roy

Just for information sake; the KZ650 Kawasaki Service Manual calls for 19.5 - 24 ft lbs torque on the "steering stem locknut" and 29 - 36 ft lbs on the "steering stem head bolt." In order to accurately torque my steering stem locknut I made a spanner adapter and used the CDI Torque Products (Snap-On) formula to calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the combined adapter/wrench length. This was much easier than it sounds, but you must reduce the torque setting on the wrench to compensate for the extra length of the adapter or you will definitely overtighten. CDI gives an easy to follow formula. Here's a picture of the adapter: