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How "Snug" Do you get the Steering Stem Lock Nut?
- badrhino
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1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
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- Kidkawie
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The top clamp puts pressure on the preload nut locking it in place. If you tighten the fork pinch bolts first, you may not have enough pressure locking the preload nut, enabling it to loosen up.
every bike I worked on was the same, only difference was the top locking hardware being a nut or bolt (like my Z1B).
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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- 650ed
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Kidkawie wrote: Usually theres the top bearing, then the PRE LOAD NUT. With the bike off the ground (at least the front wheel) I snug the preload nut so the handlebars dont flop to either side. I actually like mine a little stif and the forks should hold their position no matter where I put them. After you have the preload set, then the top clamp is installed, then the top clamp bolt/nut is installed and tightened down. There should be a torque for that top bolt, if not, just make it tight. THEN, you can tighten the top clamp fork tube pinch bolts.
The top clamp puts pressure on the preload nut locking it in place. If you tighten the fork pinch bolts first, you may not have enough pressure locking the preload nut, enabling it to loosen up.
every bike I worked on was the same, only difference was the top locking hardware being a nut or bolt (like my Z1B).
Exactly! The "preload nut" is what's been called the "lock nut" in this thread (as this is what the manual calls it) but I agree that "preload nut" is a much better description. The old KZ650 factory manual describes how to check the steering and adjust it; and warns about vibration and instability if the steering is adjusted too lose or tight. It gives instructions for adjusting the "preload nut" without using a torque wrench; but also gives the correct torque value so you can use a torque wrench of you have an adapter. It describes, as you pointed out, that the lower fork leg clamp bolts must be loosened to let the fork legs reseat themselves. I was really surprised to see how little the newer KZ1000 manual discussed steering. Considering that the 1980 KZ1000 and the 1977 KZ650 use the exact same part numbers for all the steering stem parts I cannot believe the installation procedure would be so much different. I would not reassemble the steering until I got a manual that accurately described the 1980 KZ1000 procedure. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Kidkawie
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650ed wrote:
Kidkawie wrote: Usually theres the top bearing, then the PRE LOAD NUT. With the bike off the ground (at least the front wheel) I snug the preload nut so the handlebars dont flop to either side. I actually like mine a little stif and the forks should hold their position no matter where I put them. After you have the preload set, then the top clamp is installed, then the top clamp bolt/nut is installed and tightened down. There should be a torque for that top bolt, if not, just make it tight. THEN, you can tighten the top clamp fork tube pinch bolts.
The top clamp puts pressure on the preload nut locking it in place. If you tighten the fork pinch bolts first, you may not have enough pressure locking the preload nut, enabling it to loosen up.
every bike I worked on was the same, only difference was the top locking hardware being a nut or bolt (like my Z1B).
Exactly! The "preload nut" is what's been called the "lock nut" in this thread (as this is what the manual calls it) but I agree that "preload nut" is a much better description. The old KZ650 factory manual describes how to check the steering and adjust it; and warns about vibration and instability if the steering is adjusted too lose or tight. It gives instructions for adjusting the "preload nut" without using a torque wrench; but also gives the correct torque value so you can use a torque wrench of you have an adapter. It describes, as you pointed out, that the lower fork leg clamp bolts must be loosened to let the fork legs reseat themselves. I was really surprised to see how little the newer KZ1000 manual discussed steering. Considering that the 1980 KZ1000 and the 1977 KZ650 use the exact same part numbers for all the steering stem parts I cannot believe the installation procedure would be so much different. I would not reassemble the steering until I got a manual that accurately described the 1980 KZ1000 procedure. Ed
Sometimes these manuals get "lost in translation". So calling the preload nut a "lock nut" might have been just from that.
Just remember to tighten the forks LAST. Do the stem, top clamp, lock nut first, than the fork pinch bolts.
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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- kawman66
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Kidkawie wrote: Usually theres the top bearing, then the PRE LOAD NUT. With the bike off the ground (at least the front wheel) I snug the preload nut so the handlebars dont flop to either side. I actually like mine a little stif and the forks should hold their position no matter where I put them. After you have the preload set, then the top clamp is installed, then the top clamp bolt/nut is installed and tightened down. There should be a torque for that top bolt, if not, just make it tight. THEN, you can tighten the top clamp fork tube pinch bolts.
The top clamp puts pressure on the preload nut locking it in place. If you tighten the fork pinch bolts first, you may not have enough pressure locking the preload nut, enabling it to loosen up.
every bike I worked on was the same, only difference was the top locking hardware being a nut or bolt (like my Z1B).
x2
75 z1b
76 kz900ltd
76 kz900
76 kz900-1500
77 kz1000ltd
my drinking team has a racing problem
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- roy-b-boy-b
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I bought a Z1 triple tree at the swap meet so I can install my stamped 1972 stabilizer, so I will be tearing mine down and see if the bearings are still snug. Roy
1979 LTD Street Fighter.1977 KZ1000
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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