Braided Brake Lines. Thoughts, comments wanted.

I am looking at replacing my front brake lines. The one from the MC to the 3 way joint is cracked in a couple places and I am having intermittent front brake usage.

Has anyone used them? Any thoughts? Are they better than the standard issue? Tougher, more durable, make you stop better (i kid).

I don't like that they all seem to come in chrome.

If I have drag bars what length should I get? Just measure the length with a tube and go from there?

Brake Lines
www.galferusa.com/html/ss_line_kits.html
inlinetube.com/
www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/brakelines.cfm
www.helusa.com (I'm using them, they come with several colors)
www.russellperformance.com/metric_two-line.shtml
www.goodridge.co.uk/motorcycle-brake-lines/kawasaki.htm

Most brake line builders will custom make lines for you, just tell them the dimensions. Unprotected brake lines will act like a slow speed file,cutting through paint,electrical wiring,and other brake lines.

To protect my bikes systems, I went to Radio Shack and bought a package of black spiral wrap tubing. It's 1/4" in diameter but will expand up to maybe 3/8".

Custom lengths, color and fittings...

And yes they'll actually make you stop better where all energy is applied to the caliper pistons versus the line expanding.

a tip i am keeping as i get ready to try a brand also...is that a fabric tape and a note pad will get me close enough to what i need if done with some thought...when i figure who i use...i am leaning towards bringing the bike and the fabric tape to the decades long, parts man, at the kawi shop,it would be my first real help i have paid for there... and using his products...he will order and work with any problems until i have the right goodies and am stocked for repairs ect...a true fit kit.....i install he just walks along and helps with backing any glitches

he mentioned the brand and it is the one of the great ones always popping up in these steel lines suggestion threads...but the fittings and previous order record and his knowing the reps...i am sold almost right?

was close to 200 tax and riding away i think

Tested wrote: .... Just measure the length with a tube and go from there?

You should also determine if the brake hose connectors need to be straight or angled. Connectors are available in a variety of configurations. I've seen installations where angled connectors were needed but straight connectors or wrong angle connectors were used and the hoses ended up being very poorly routed - not cool. Here's an example of connectors:

I'm running Goodridge braided lines for all four of my brake lines. They come with a plastic like coating on them to protect the painted finishes they touch. I also run drag bars and I'm sure the line from the mc to the splitter is 9" and from there to the calipers are 15". If I recall correctly they offer them in black braid as well. Also, Ed is right on the money about the fittings, if you don't get the right ones for each connection, it will look like 400# ass.

+1 on the Goodridge lines. I have them on my bike, and I'm satisfied. One nice thing about the Goodridge lines is that the end fittings are replaceable. If you decide on the wrong angle, just swap it out and re-bleed. Not possible with the custom made lines. Plus they are sold in 1" increments, so you can get real close on the OAL.

Awesome!! Thanks guys I will look into it and make a plan for where my bike money is going next payday.

One of these days this bike will be bad ass. It just seems like one problem after another keeps presenting itself.

Now my headlight only wants to work intermitently. I don't mind though. I am learning a ton about motorcycles and am really getting into it. My wife calls my bike the other woman.

Iv'e ridden bikes since I was little but never really did anything to them. Just rode them until they broke then got rid of them. This one I'm gonna keep around for awhile.

I'd open up the headlight housing and check the three prong socket for corrosion and loose wires.

Color Codes On Most Kawasaki’s (written for 1980’s bikes)

HEADLIGHT
RED with BLACK stripe, High Beam.
RED with YELLOW stripe, Low Beam.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

BRAKE/TAIL LIGHT Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
RED, Running or Tail Light.
BLUE,(sometimes with a Red stripe) Brake Light Circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1157 dual filament bulb
GREEN, Left front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Left front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT FRONT TURN SIGNAL Can be an # 1157 dual filament bulb
GREY, Right front turn signal circuit.
BLUE, Right front running light circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREEN, Left rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.

RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL Can be an #1156 single filament bulb
GREY, Right rear turn signal circuit.
BLACK with YELLOW stripe, the ground circuit.


Also check the high/low beam switch in the left handlebar switch pod for corrosion/bad solder joint.

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Martin is right, I'm running a 9" upper line plus about 3" of fitting length. I should have clarified that in my post, sorry. Same goes for the lengths of the lower line, that is without the fittings added in.

MFolks wrote: Brake Lines
www.helusa.com (I'm using them, they come with several colors)

To protect my bikes systems, I went to Radio Shack and bought a package of black spiral wrap tubing. It's 1/4" in diameter but will expand up to maybe 3/8".

+1 on the Hel's but mine were the encased type so no need for the spiral wrap.