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Brake bleeding tips
- draboo
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- zzz
www.helusa.com/brake-doctor/index.php.57.html
I read a tread about someone who could not get the air out of his system no matter how he tried. I'm speculating that this reverse bleeding procedure will alleviate this problem. My wife already ok-ed the procurement of her turkey baster! She DOES love me! :woohoo:
1983 KZ1100D Spectre shaft
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- KZ_Rage
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- Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale
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Vacuum Bleeder
works great, just keep refilling the master until all you get is clean fluid in the trap and all is good, no bubbles in my system, If you still have the stock splitter then you might want to take it loose from the tree and move it into different positions while bleeding to make sure there are no bubbles in there.
1979 KZ1000E1 SOLD!
1984 KZ550F2 SOLD!
2006 ZG1000A6F (Totaled)
2001 ZRX1200R (Sold)
2001 Sprint 955i ST (daily rider)
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- loudhvx
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1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- draboo
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- zzz
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Thanks for the tips! I still do have the stock junction block between the forks. I m having my new lines made locally. I thought about eliminating the junction, but decided to keep things stock.
1983 KZ1100D Spectre shaft
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- mark1122
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- Keep twisting it
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u can remove any part that looks like it may trap air ,and try to position it in a manor that will allow the air to escape.
the new radial masters have a bleed nipple on top for this reason. this is a spot that is prone to trapping air. also on the calipers, some models dont have the bleed nipple on the highest part, so air can be trapped above the nipple.
i use a Vacuum Bleeder
as well. it saves u a lot of frustrasion for 50 bucks. and u realy should change the fluid every couple of years.
76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
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- draboo
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- zzz
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mark1122 wrote: i thing to remember if u are having trouble.
u can remove any part that looks like it may trap air ,and try to position it in a manor that will allow the air to escape.
the new radial masters have a bleed nipple on top for this reason. this is a spot that is prone to trapping air. also on the calipers, some models dont have the bleed nipple on the highest part, so air can be trapped above the nipple.
i use a Vacuum Bleeder
as well. it saves u a lot of frustrasion for 50 bucks. and u realy should change the fluid every couple of years.
I'm thinking I just might pick one up. I was gonna try to reverse bleed it like it says on that web page I posted(very last hint on the page).
1983 KZ1100D Spectre shaft
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- Old Man Rock
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1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- havakaw
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'80 KZ 750 LTD-H
'82 KZ 1100 A-2 Shafty (ex-bagger)
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- fxdl2051
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- martin_csr
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- Turtle
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I think the biggest issue with motorcycle brakes is the master cylinder does not move very much fluid, and this is why it can take a very long time to bleed the traditional way.
1980 KZ 1000 A4 with 750 Zephyr swing arm and ZX-9 rear wheel
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- Kidkawie
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- I bleed premix
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Open bleeder, slowly apply brake, close bleeder, let off brake, repeat.
Works every time.
1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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