Rear wheel tightening?

Thanks guys for all the suggestions, going to pull wheel off tomorrow and start over, will let you know what I screwed up or missed

mvent wrote: Thanks guys for all the suggestions, going to pull wheel off tomorrow and start over, will let you know what I screwed up or missed

Smart move there, and remember to not hit the Inner race of the bearing with any force/ hammer when installing in the hub. Only the outer race, or you will cause the bearing Balls to mark the races.

.

Lets analyze

the OP has an issue, a suggestion is made, that suggestion is immediately attacked, even though it is verifiable info
Did anybody notice ???? I based my comment on (incorrectly i might add) a torque value for a 73 to 76 Z1/KZ. 95 ft lbs, some posters referenced this number although i did not mention it specifically, however the infinitely wise Wireman ( well at least about wrenching) mention a range of between 72 and 101, apparently that had chaged after 76 even though the setup is basically the same , wonder why ???? The OP didnt mention his torque setting , or if there was any grinding noise and other symptoms,
Now that being said there are BS issues involved, no friggin way is one castle nut slot equal to 29 ft lbs, sorry, BULLSHIT, and slamming someone because they have had issues with "experience vs WTF ever" (I was PM'ed over that one) is lame as well, being a know-it-all who doesnt know-it-all is pervasive at this site, post count doesnt equal knowledge and people here will feed u some shit (something Larry told me early on)
Now about the OP's problem, I've had two different bike do the same thing, the first one (not a Kaw) WAS missing a spacer in the drum brake, finny thing though is the part was listed but not shown in the parts book diagram, the second time was because of the torque, I went with 95 ( the value my manual said) and dropped it a little ( upon the advice of someone with true knowledge) and all is well, the axle and spacers are assembled correctly, and all that shit, got a thousand miles on it, no issues, running great.
So take that for what its worth , just trying to help, funny how the attack posture is so prevalent, to the OP BTW are the parts used NOS or re-pops ????

ALSO THE SWINGARM WILL PINCH IN, BELIEVE IT

ALSO
if the axle nut doesnt tighten against the swingarm then its up to the axle adjusters to keep the axle from moving under pressure and they arent designed to do that (unless the axle is all the way forward against part number 26), they are exactly the same as the 73 to 76,
www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/19...-us/o/m3930#sch38752
dont believe me, go loosen up ur axle nut and kick the rear tire and watch it move, so what keeps the axle in place ????, the pressure on the swingarm, PERIOD, pressure on the liner and spacer isnt going to keep the axle from moving, thats common sense

Bearings are new, bought them last fall, don't remember if they were OEM or from Z-1 Ent. have to look at my receipts, have been studying shop manual and eyeballing assembly, looks like I might have put spacer #23 on sprocket side and coupling collar #4 on rotor side :blush: , I guess that would explain why brake arm wasn't lining up with caliper.
BTW as far as torquing, never even got near values called for before binding.
Will know for sure tomorrow.

Motor Head wrote: Tightening the Axle, should only apply pressure to the spacers and Inner Bearing races. There are no Tapered bearings that could be lose or tight by Torque values.
Look at the diagram and find which spacer you have either miss-installed or forgotten.

Just noticed something interesting, in this diagram, it shows #4 coupling on disc side, and #24 collar on sprocket side, this is how I have it assembled, however, my Kawasaki shop manual shows them opposite !!!! I will follow shop manual to see if that's what the problem is

mvent wrote: Bearings are new, bought them last fall, don't remember if they were OEM or from Z-1 Ent. have to look at my receipts, have been studying shop manual and eyeballing assembly, looks like I might have put spacer #23 on sprocket side and coupling collar #4 on rotor side :blush: , I guess that would explain why brake arm wasn't lining up with caliper.
BTW as far as torquing, never even got near values called for before binding.
Will know for sure tomorrow.

check for uneven wear on ur disc or caliper

Could be the model I picked as there are a few different ones. I never saw where you posted the model info. You can go to Kawasaki.com and enter your info and pull up the diagram for compare.

this one looks the same
www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/19...-us/o/m3930#sch40223
but again a photo would help

sorry that for 77 u said 78

measure from the edge of ur tire to the inside of the swingarm, if both arent the same more or less then u got something in wrong

It's a 78 A2A, will go on Kawasaki.com to compare to manual