Replacing fork seals advice needed on KZ1000ST

I've been wondering about doing this myself but don't have a fork seal driver or that long t wrench that holds the forks. Any reliable home made solutions that will work guys?
Thanks all,
Ken

I always leave the top cap on the fork, so there is spring pressure on the damper rod. Then I use my air impact gun to loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork. As for the fork seal driver, a suitable piece of pipe can be used (even pvc). After reassembling the lower part I'll take off the top cap to clean the spring and add the oil, to the correct level.

mthure wrote: I always leave the top cap on the fork, so there is spring pressure on the damper rod. Then I use my air impact gun to loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork. As for the fork seal driver, a suitable piece of pipe can be used (even pvc). After reassembling the lower part I'll take off the top cap to clean the spring and add the oil, to the correct level.

+1 on this method.
i've done it this way on several bikes.

leon

Here's a tool I made to hold my fork cylinders, they were REALLY tight and had a round hole in the top rather than the hexagonal depression some models have. I needed to use it to remove the bolts and also when reassembling to tighten the bolts to the correct torque value. Use a flashlight to see if yours have the hex depression. If so seach this forum for other homemade tools. For a seal driver just take one of the new seals to a hardware store and find a piece of PVC that is the same (or real close) outside diameter. Ed

kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/318027-fork-cylinder-holder

cool, very good info. Im thinking about attempting this for my first time as well.

I did my ST and maybe it was just not my lucky day, but it was a major bitch of a job. I've done 100 fork seals before and normally using air tools and leave the cap on the forks the hex bolts will spin right off, but not on these sons a bitch :laugh: Like I say, maybe just luck was not flowing that day. If you can't get the bolts off, they are easy to drill then get new bolts if all else fails.

Thanks for all the great ideas so far, you guys are great!
ss^,Ken

How 'bout putting the fork back together? Same technique, can you torque to spec doing it this way?
Thanks,Ken

hi guys,this how ido em.remove the fork from the bike (first loosen the top cap)remove dust boot washers & circlips gently without scratching the chrome.mount the fork in a vice using soft jaws & REMOVE THE FORK CAP.remove the spring, place in clean bucket.NOW FILL THE FORK WITH CLEAN ELCHEAPO ENGINE OIL.WITH THE FORK EXTENDED FILL TO THE TOP & PUT THE CAP ON BY HAND.now compress the fork using a wood working sash clamp or some other means to compress the fork. the seal will pop straight out,(if you have taken out the circlips).Undo the cap & drain oil out of the fork.put 200mls of diesel, turps or even petrol.work the fork up & down to get any oil & sludge in the fork moving around.drain the fork & do it again.this is all that is needed to do internally.replace your fork seals,circlips washers & whatever else you took off from the outside of the fork.refill with the correct amount of oil working the fork back & forth to remove air bubles.install the spring, spacers and cap.re-install the fork & get cracking on the other one. it will take a tenth of the time that the first one did.the best way to support the bike is to remove the tank and place a long fan belt thru the frame or upper yoke & lift with a block & tackle.dont use a screwed fan belt.good belts are strong & can easily lift a bike.Any way this is how i did my kz900 & various other bikes.wayno kz900 vn1500 drifter.

Sounds messy! Plus it's very easy to support the bike with a bottle jack under the engine rather than hanging it from above (see pic).