Handlebar advice

Hey all. I need some advice. I'm in the midst of a resto of my '82 KZ1100 and finally got to test ride it today briefly after quite a bit of work. I am not terribly fond of the stock handlebars, they're too swept-back and upright for what I'm going for. This bike is apparently known as a "Supersport Tourer" and I'd like more Supersport and less tourer. So what handlebars can I change over to for this to be more of a forward stance while riding? I'm also swapping out that gaudy King/Queen seat for a standard, which I've already ordered from eBay and it's on the way.

Thanks.

The sky is pretty much the limit for bar choices. It just depends on how far you're willing to go. Superbike, drag bars, clubmans, there's a lot to choose from.
Z1 Enterprises should be your friend.
www.z1enterprises.com/SearchResult.aspx?...yWords=handle%20bars
But remember, when you change the bars out, you very well may have to change out your cables too...

Thanks, but I was thinking more of swapping them out with another Kawa model like the Z1000 or GPZ, but aftermarket might work. I'll have to email them and get the dimensions in regards to how far the reach would be. I thought about the cables too, but we'll see about that. Thanks.

I felt the same way you did about the stock KZ900 bars. Mine were rusty anyways so I got the EMGO European bars. I think the link from z1enterprices above has it pictured (has the sock on it in the picture). They come on chrome or black. A little more rise than the sport bike model I think.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationi have black drag bars i got from Z1E and they feel amazing. i love the look. the only problem is the brake booster hits the gas tank on the right and the clutch handle hits the tank on the right. so for me to fix that i ordered a set of risers off of ebay to help rise the bars to clear the tank.

Another thing to consider with new bars, are the cable lengths. I haven't installed mine yet so I don't know about the cables. Just in case you need to order shorter cables at the same time if length is a factor with your new bars.

Thanks, all! Great advice.

I posted a question about bars a while back also, as i was after something different for my 82 KZ1000.

I was hoping and had thought that this was a simple thing and that many people had probably done it, but I'm still a little in the dark. With regards to changing cable lengths and master cylinders etc, surely there's a standard "fix" ?

It's because of my limited knowledge, I know, but I thought it'd be a little easier. The other day I tried a set of 2010 Triumph Bonneville bars off a mates bike, but the cables were way too long and the master cylinder (stock) sat at a very awkward angle. I ended up figuring it just wasn't worth it, but I'll still keep an eye out I guess. Also, the front indicators were a little ill positioned with different bars.

Peter

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No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

andler2008 wrote: i have black drag bars i got from Z1E and they feel amazing. i love the look. the only problem is the brake booster hits the gas tank on the right and the clutch handle hits the tank on the right. so for me to fix that i ordered a set of risers off of ebay to help rise the bars to clear the tank.

Another way to use drag bars and avoid the controls banging the tank is to get a broomstick bar. This bar is straight and has no bend. It's also longer than regular drag bars. I ordered one, put it on my bike and cut off about an inch and a half off and still had enough clearance so that the tank doesn't get dinged.

See here:

Then order Z1R throttle and clutch cables (they are shorter than other cables) from Z1 Enterprises and then your bike will look sharp.

martin_csr wrote:

PRM068 wrote: ...

I was hoping and had thought that this was a simple thing and that many people had probably done it, but I'm still a little in the dark. With regards to changing cable lengths and master cylinders etc, surely there's a standard "fix"

Nope. You have to swap your bars, then make the changes appropriate for your model. Disconnect the cables at the handlebars, then reposition them to figure out the overage; measure the old, then figure out the needed size for the new.

For the brake line & if your bike has the pipe-joint/splitter there at the forks, a simple way to figure out the needed length of the upper line is to lower the pipe joint until the brake line looks about right, then measure the overage. simple.

If the Fr Br master cylinder is angled w the new bars, you can use the mc from just about any Japanese bike having 7/8" bars & meeting your basic Fr brake criteria.

That's a very good point about the Master Cylinder, thanks.

martin_csr wrote:

PRM068 wrote: ...

I was hoping and had thought that this was a simple thing and that many people had probably done it, but I'm still a little in the dark. With regards to changing cable lengths and master cylinders etc, surely there's a standard "fix"

Nope. You have to swap your bars, then make the changes appropriate for your model. Disconnect the cables at the handlebars, then reposition them to figure out the overage; measure the old, then figure out the needed size for the new.

For the brake line & if your bike has the pipe-joint/splitter there at the forks, a simple way to figure out the needed length of the upper line is to lower the pipe joint until the brake line looks about right, then measure the overage. simple.

If the Fr Br master cylinder is angled w the new bars, you can use the mc from just about any Japanese bike having 7/8" bars & meeting your basic Fr brake criteria.

Thanks a lot - makes sense. Just wasn't sure what you could and couldn't do. I might do a search for a "flatter" sitting master Cylinder and then measure up the break lines.

Peter