Will any CSR forks fit my '81 kz1000 CSR?

I pulled the forks off my bike and took about 40 minutes looking at how to take them apart before I realized that the 2 "things" on the bottom that look like Allen head bolts are in fact very very stripped Allen head bolts. And I then died a little inside. Because I now know that it will be harder and more expensive to fix that than if just bought other ones.

So I was wondering if any forks from another CSR will be as long and as thick (36mm) as my stock ones. Maybe from a kz305 up to a 750.

Don't despair! If the bolts you are referring to are the ones shown in the diagram below as part #44041-040 you don’t need to replace your forks. The heads of those bolts can be drilled out and the fork cylinder can then be removed. The allen hole in the head is nearly the same diameter as the threaded part of bolt, so if you use a drill bit a little larger than the allen hole (a little over 8mm) the head will pop off the bolt. After you drill the head off the bolt the fork cylinder can be removed and the remaining portion of the bolt can be unscrewed from the fork cylinder. This can all be done without damaging anything other than the bolt. New Kawasaki allen bolts are still available from Kawasaki, so any dealer can order them. You may need to make a tool to hold the fork cylinder while you are drilling the head off the bolt. There are several references to homemade tools on this site. Let us know if you need help finding them. Ed

So can the threaded side of the bolt be left in the fork after the head is drilled off or will I have to use an easy out?

And i have heard that they are torqued down quite well so an easy out might not work.

Perhaps the bolts aren't stripped, and the internals are spinning along with the bolts.

Sometimes the bolts loosen if torqued or subjected to an impact wrench before removing the fork caps, (apparently not attempted in this case).

Otherwise, different style extension tools are fabricated to reach down into the fork from the top end and hold the internal part stationary whereby the bolt may be removed.

Just hoping for an easy fix.

Good Fortune!

If you drill the head off there should be enough of the threaded portion sticking out of the fork cylinder that you can remove it (after removing the fork cylinder from the lower fork tube) using vise grips. HOWEVER, as Patton suggests, are you positive the allen hole in the bolt is stripped or is the allen wrench gripping the bolt well and the bolt and fork cylinder all spinning inside the fork leg? This is not at all uncommon if you are not using a tool to hold the fork cylinder from spinning. Make sure before drilling. Ed

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