How do you know when the M/C is shot?

I am trying to bleed my brakes and I have nothing but fluid coming out but I can not get pressure built up. Is my M/C Shot? I have tried everything and can't get any pressure.
However I am successfully getting fluid on my nice painted pieces and it is stripping it for me. :sick:

Hydraulic brakes are my least favorite task. Couple things I have found, the stock rebuild kits are better then the aftermarket and I have found aftermarket kits that will not work at all. My other trick is back bleeding using a syringe to push fluid from the caliper back into the master reservoir. Last trick is to do the best I can then walk away and try it the next day, I think sometimes the rubber has to absorb the fluid.

I'm using the M/C that came on the bike. I figured I would try it before buying a kit or a new M/C. It is probably junk.

It's one of the triangular ones with plastic resevior and the plastic is weathered pretty good.

I am looking into a newer replacement from either a ZX1100, ZG, or a ZR7. Most of those Kawasaki M/C's are 5/8 and have a mirror mount on them. You can pick most up for $40.

Today I am starting to get some lever pressure but it is at about the end of the movement close to the grip. It holds there good. Does that mean that it is getting close or could the M/C still be shot?

Would re-bleed the front brakes a few more times over the next several days, and the lever will hopefully begin to feel firm before getting so close to the handlebar grip.

Good Fortune!

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My brake system was completely dry for a year or so just sitting around. I rebuilt the front brake calipers but I did not rebuild the M/C. Double disk are a PITA. I gained another 1/4 inch or so on the lever tonight. Hopefully by tomorrow it will be where it should be.

After I got the brakes pumped up to the max it would go, I got down by the calipers and pushed really hard to get the oil to reverse back up to the M/C by squeezing the caliper to push the piston back in. Then I had to re-pump it for a while to get it back to where it was and bled the lines again. That's when I gained a little more on the lever.

Sometimes it takes a few days before all the tiny almost invisible air bubbles are finally purged from the brake fluid in the system.

On a side note -- if the container of new brake fluid is shaken, stirred, dropped, or otherwise roiled, such disturbance will likely create air bubbles in the new fluid being added to the reservoir.
(Same reason a can of varnish should never be shaken before brushing it on.)

Good Fortune!

I bled and re-bled again today and didn't gain anything. How much room should you have on these older bikes between the lever and the grip? I am only achieving about 1/2-3/4 inch. Definitely not enough room to brake hard with your hand still on the throttle tube without pinching your other fingers. :pinch:

I went ahead and bought a M/C off of oof feebay from a 2003 ZX-12R that should work fine ($40) and it has adjustable lever.

I had a similar problem with my KZ750 twin LTD.
No matter how many times I bleed the caliper I couldn't get a good solid lever.
I was advised to bleed the master cylinder by pumping and bleeding by cracking the banjo fitting and if that didn't work take out the banjo bolt and put a short bolt into the master cylinder and bleed it. Low & behold it worked and I had a solid as a brick brake lever. However when i took out the repacement bolt and repalced it with the standard banjo bolt and brake line I lost alot of the firmness after I bleed the caliper but it was still a big improvement. I did this a couple of times being careful not to lose much of the brake fluid and i finally got the front brake to work okay.
Make sure you cover the tank etc. because the fluid will be difficult to contain.
Good luck.

i have a zx12 mc on mine. it works great.