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How do you know when the M/C is shot?
- badrhino
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22 Mar 2012 21:57 #511336
by badrhino
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
How do you know when the M/C is shot? was created by badrhino
I am trying to bleed my brakes and I have nothing but fluid coming out but I can not get pressure built up. Is my M/C Shot? I have tried everything and can't get any pressure.
However I am successfully getting fluid on my nice painted pieces and it is stripping it for me. :sick:
However I am successfully getting fluid on my nice painted pieces and it is stripping it for me. :sick:
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
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- etbike3135
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22 Mar 2012 22:02 - 22 Mar 2012 22:03 #511338
by etbike3135
1973 Kawasaki Z1
18 years in dragbikes
Replied by etbike3135 on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
Hydraulic brakes are my least favorite task. Couple things I have found, the stock rebuild kits are better then the aftermarket and I have found aftermarket kits that will not work at all. My other trick is back bleeding using a syringe to push fluid from the caliper back into the master reservoir. Last trick is to do the best I can then walk away and try it the next day, I think sometimes the rubber has to absorb the fluid.
1973 Kawasaki Z1
18 years in dragbikes
Last edit: 22 Mar 2012 22:03 by etbike3135.
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- badrhino
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22 Mar 2012 22:09 - 22 Mar 2012 22:25 #511341
by badrhino
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
Replied by badrhino on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
I'm using the M/C that came on the bike. I figured I would try it before buying a kit or a new M/C. It is probably junk.
It's one of the triangular ones with plastic resevior and the plastic is weathered pretty good.
It's one of the triangular ones with plastic resevior and the plastic is weathered pretty good.
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
Last edit: 22 Mar 2012 22:25 by badrhino.
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- badrhino
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23 Mar 2012 02:57 #511398
by badrhino
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
Replied by badrhino on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
I am looking into a newer replacement from either a ZX1100, ZG, or a ZR7. Most of those Kawasaki M/C's are 5/8 and have a mirror mount on them. You can pick most up for $40.
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
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- badrhino
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23 Mar 2012 14:27 #511493
by badrhino
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
Replied by badrhino on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
Today I am starting to get some lever pressure but it is at about the end of the movement close to the grip. It holds there good. Does that mean that it is getting close or could the M/C still be shot?
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
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- Patton
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23 Mar 2012 15:01 - 23 Mar 2012 15:01 #511494
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
Would re-bleed the front brakes a few more times over the next several days, and the lever will hopefully begin to feel firm before getting so close to the handlebar grip.
Good Fortune!
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 23 Mar 2012 15:01 by Patton.
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23 Mar 2012 17:10 - 20 Feb 2013 12:23 #511507
by martin_csr
Last edit: 20 Feb 2013 12:23 by martin_csr.
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- badrhino
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23 Mar 2012 23:00 #511563
by badrhino
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
Replied by badrhino on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
My brake system was completely dry for a year or so just sitting around. I rebuilt the front brake calipers but I did not rebuild the M/C. Double disk are a PITA. I gained another 1/4 inch or so on the lever tonight. Hopefully by tomorrow it will be where it should be.
After I got the brakes pumped up to the max it would go, I got down by the calipers and pushed really hard to get the oil to reverse back up to the M/C by squeezing the caliper to push the piston back in. Then I had to re-pump it for a while to get it back to where it was and bled the lines again. That's when I gained a little more on the lever.
After I got the brakes pumped up to the max it would go, I got down by the calipers and pushed really hard to get the oil to reverse back up to the M/C by squeezing the caliper to push the piston back in. Then I had to re-pump it for a while to get it back to where it was and bled the lines again. That's when I gained a little more on the lever.
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
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24 Mar 2012 09:35 - 24 Mar 2012 09:36 #511620
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
Sometimes it takes a few days before all the tiny almost invisible air bubbles are finally purged from the brake fluid in the system.
On a side note -- if the container of new brake fluid is shaken, stirred, dropped, or otherwise roiled, such disturbance will likely create air bubbles in the new fluid being added to the reservoir.
(Same reason a can of varnish should never be shaken before brushing it on.)
Good Fortune!
On a side note -- if the container of new brake fluid is shaken, stirred, dropped, or otherwise roiled, such disturbance will likely create air bubbles in the new fluid being added to the reservoir.
(Same reason a can of varnish should never be shaken before brushing it on.)
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 24 Mar 2012 09:36 by Patton.
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- badrhino
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24 Mar 2012 23:52 #511773
by badrhino
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
Replied by badrhino on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
I bled and re-bled again today and didn't gain anything. How much room should you have on these older bikes between the lever and the grip? I am only achieving about 1/2-3/4 inch. Definitely not enough room to brake hard with your hand still on the throttle tube without pinching your other fingers. :pinch:
I went ahead and bought a M/C off of oof feebay from a 2003 ZX-12R that should work fine ($40) and it has adjustable lever.
I went ahead and bought a M/C off of oof feebay from a 2003 ZX-12R that should work fine ($40) and it has adjustable lever.
1980 KZ1000 with a 1982 KZ1000J motor with 1100 pistons and heads, Vance & Hines, 29MM Smooth Bores, Work in Progress
Franken Z!
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25 Mar 2012 17:21 #511912
by Edskzs
Replied by Edskzs on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
I had a similar problem with my KZ750 twin LTD.
No matter how many times I bleed the caliper I couldn't get a good solid lever.
I was advised to bleed the master cylinder by pumping and bleeding by cracking the banjo fitting and if that didn't work take out the banjo bolt and put a short bolt into the master cylinder and bleed it. Low & behold it worked and I had a solid as a brick brake lever. However when i took out the repacement bolt and repalced it with the standard banjo bolt and brake line I lost alot of the firmness after I bleed the caliper but it was still a big improvement. I did this a couple of times being careful not to lose much of the brake fluid and i finally got the front brake to work okay.
Make sure you cover the tank etc. because the fluid will be difficult to contain.
Good luck.
No matter how many times I bleed the caliper I couldn't get a good solid lever.
I was advised to bleed the master cylinder by pumping and bleeding by cracking the banjo fitting and if that didn't work take out the banjo bolt and put a short bolt into the master cylinder and bleed it. Low & behold it worked and I had a solid as a brick brake lever. However when i took out the repacement bolt and repalced it with the standard banjo bolt and brake line I lost alot of the firmness after I bleed the caliper but it was still a big improvement. I did this a couple of times being careful not to lose much of the brake fluid and i finally got the front brake to work okay.
Make sure you cover the tank etc. because the fluid will be difficult to contain.
Good luck.
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- mark1122
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25 Mar 2012 18:14 #511931
by mark1122
76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
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~ (k) / (z)
Replied by mark1122 on topic How do you know when the M/C is shot?
i have a zx12 mc on mine. it works great.
76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
~ ~ ~_@
~ ~ _- \,
~ (k) / (z)
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