77 650s in the house

I wonder if the cylinders marked "0.652 l" were replacements? Maybe replaced under warranty or something? Ed

Could be, or perhaps the early batches where marked that way? I'll pop a question in the ENGINE section, me thinks.

Today things went slow, preventing me from getting it all finished.

- did some shining to the left side footpeg rubbers
- did a quick and dirty fix to one of the brackets that hold the heat shield on the left hand exhaust system since the nut had vibrated off
- painted a coin sized scrape mark on the rear of the left muffler with chrome spray
- painted the exhaust outlets black
- fitted left side exhaust system, hit struggle since the top of the nut retainer for the muffler/rear peg had let go of its weld
- used the Dremel to sand off the rust on the choke lever and used clear paint to slow onset of new rust
- swapped brake calipers after checking that the one on the parts bike moved freely in every way and rubber dust seals were all supple and sound. One dust seal missing from the slider, but was replaced with one from the user
- swapped brake hoses, but swapped back when I discovered onset of cracking on the hose from the parts bike. If bike is kept I will buy a new stock hose for the B1, I reckon, for me own safety
- kept the master cylinder since there were signs of crash damage on the all-metal container - that I wanted to use - on the parts bike's.
- took the better looking - both design and condition - lit and rubber diaphragm from the parts bike
- bled the brakes with fresh fluid, firm lever
- took the clutch interlock from the parts bike and fitted it to the user after removing remains left from the old one by previous owner, but didn't connect it as I do not want the functionality

Had a moment of drama as I tried to force brake fluid through the bleed nipple and the hose blew off and fluid sprayed all over the place. Wasn't as bad is I had imagine, but still rinsed off the bike and floor and whatever else had been hit that I could see. I hate brake fluid! Don't mind working with brakes, but the fluid with destroy just about everything it comes into contact with.

Only a couple of things more to do before attempting start-up.

Also, the clutch cover on the Norwegian bike has a little ridge (about 1 mm) around the circumference of the round, flat part. The USA model is totally smooth. Do you know what the difference comes from?

First one I've seen like that.
I'd bet it's a one off/miscast.
A collectors item maybe?

Could also be non-original? Time to pop another question at the Engine section :lol:

Finished the bike today

- removed front brake lever, polished lever and traced threads, lubed it and fitted a locking nut below that was missing
- painted black around the KAWASAKI logo on the ignition cover
- painted bolt head for the brake stopper silver
- painted master cylinder retaining bolt heads with chrome spray
- snugged up downpipe clamp on the left side exhaust that I forgot yesterday
- fitted mirrors and adjusted them
- fitted new license plate after drilling holes and finding good bolts
- stripped and lubed timing advancer
- checked ignition timing. One set of points had 0.5 mm gap :blink: Set them to .35 mm and then checked timing. Way to high. Adjusted plate as late as it went, but still not close, but at least I could see the timing mark now. Had to take the gap to 0.22 mm to get it right with timing maximum retarded. For cylinder 2 and 3 it came down to 0.27 mm before static timing was correct. Threads for the points on the 2/3 set not good. Will check out plate from parts bike later.

What's left is to buy fuel and attempt starting it - always with mixed emotions when it's the first ever start in my hands :dry:

If you haven't already done so, be sure to change the oil & filter before starting the engine.

Here’s the method I use for static timing, you may want to do this to double check your static timing before starting the engine. To make my life easier, I turn OFF the ignition. I disconnect the green wire near one coil and the black wire near the other coil. (This is not in the book, but it makes checking continuity much easier for me.) After installing the new points or cleaning up the old ones, turn the 17 mm nut while watching the points. When points set 1&4 are at their widest gap adjust them (by loosening the 2 screws that hold the points to the backplate) so the gap equals 0.35 mm. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise through a full revolution again and double check this gap. Then repeat this for points set 3&4. Now set your meter to test continuity and clip one wire to the leaf spring on points set 1&4 and clip the other wire to ground. Turn the 17 mm nut clockwise until the 1&4 “F” mark aligns with the pointer mentioned above. You want the continuity across point set 1&4 to just break when the F mark aligns with the pointer. The idea is that when the continuity just fails is when the points will fire their respective coil and cylinders. In order to adjust the point at which continuity fails you loosen the 3 screws that hold the backplate to the engine and slightly turn the backplate until the meter shows a break in continuity. On the newer KZ650 models there is no separate timing adjustment for each points set, so once you have the 1&4 set timed properly you can check the 2&3 set to make sure they break when the 2&3 F mark aligns with the pointer. Don’t forget to plug in the green and black coil wires when you’re done. Ed

IT'S ALIVE :laugh:

Thanks for the detailed description, Ed. I usually use a bulb, but today I did a very simplistic test across the points with a continuty tester. I adjusted the gap so that the BEEP came when I just pushed the points a hint together at the F mark, then turned the engine and checked again. I have a strobe and will make another test later when I've ridden the bike a bit. It's close enough for now.

My Haynes manual arrived this afternoon and explain why the adjustments felt so alien; my back plate miss the two smaller back plates for each set of points. I'll check the parts bike tomorrow.

The oil I drained was almost like new and the filter looked like it came off the shelf, so I put it back in. It will not stay there for long as I plan to run a thousand miles to flush the engine before making another oil and filter change.

With starter fluid, the engine eventually came to life, but wouldn't stay running. Reason? I imagined I had turned on the fuel tap, but it was only in my imagination :blush: At first the engine wouldn't idle or pull below 3000 rpm without "choke", but the idle jets cleared up after 5-10 miles.

There is no powerband to speak of; the engine will pull smoothly from 1500 rpm in top gear, but there is nowhere that it comes alive. Instead, it just pulls stronger as revs rise in a totally linear fashion. It's an engine without "teeth". Not very strong, but quite flexible. It probably feels slower and tamer than it is. There is virtually no engine braking, unfortunately.

Vibrations creep into the seat at just over 4300 rpm, so with the taller gearing 55 mph is dead smooth, 60 means a little tinglung in the bum quarter. At higher rpm the handlebars and mirrors buzz.

The fork isn't overly compliant, but it doesn't bother all that much due to the tall handlebars and upright seating position. The stock shocks from 1977 with 22k miles on them work very well set to maximum preload, surprisingly enough. Brakes are OK, but demand much more effort than more modern items.

Handling is amazing as the bike will change direction quickly and with very little effort. Feels almost like a bicycle. And very neutral. Still, this is no sportbike. Instead, it's a relaxing cruiser happiest below 60 mph, cornering grazefully instead of briskly.

After 10 miles I was ready to turn around and put it up for sale as it was just so, well, bland. But as the ride went on the bike started to grown on me. I've had way too many accidents, several serious, because I tend to take too much risk. The last two season't I've improved in the sensibility department, but I have been looking at a bike that will let me enjoy lazy riding without the limitations of a cruiser. I may have found it. We need more time together, but I did like it more the longer I rode it. Perhaps bland can be a good thing

Sorry about another longwinded post :blush:

The starting point, which actually looks better here than it did in reality


Together with the spare bike, also helped by poor image


As it stands today




Engine and exhaust then


Engine and exhaust now

Wow! Your bike looks really good! I like the paint job, and that exhaust system is stunning. Ed

Thank you for the kind words, Ed, but the bike is nowhere near the condition of your machine. And the exhaust isn't all that good close up. You can see the inner wall having made a ridge around the circumference near the rear of the right muffler, and the left had lots of damaged chrome from battery acid (I presume). There are also scrapes at the very rear end of both, the left I have sprayed over with chrome paint. But from a couple of paces away it looks pretty good

Oh, and the paint is thick and really professionally done. It was already on when I bought it, but it's some of the best I've seen, spotless.

This bike is really starting to grow on me!

Seat is not fantastic, but since it is so easy to move around almost its full length, I can sit in comfort for quite some time.

I like the peg position as they give room for my worn knees and also fit well where-ever I'm sitting on the saddle, aiding comfort.

Footpegs are a blessing in themselves as they offer comfort for the feet way above what most bikes with narrower and harder pegs do.

The engine seems to smooth out a little and power seems to get a little stronger.

Fuel consumption on the first tankfill was 50 mpg, which I find pretty impressive.

The exhaust is so silent I cannot hear it above 45-50 mph while cruising.

The engine is barely audible as well, just a very muffled humm comes through while cruising.

And, most importantly, I'm having massive fun while also riding very sensibly.

Great bike!

Replaced the grab rail from the later F model with the correct separate rails because they let the duck tail stand out much better IMO. Also got caught in a brief shower that lasted about a mile, requiring a wash.

New grab rails in place:


From the rear:


Well kept seat from 1977:


Underneath seat:


From its best side: